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I have several NOS four arm FSA Alpha Drive 22/32/44 cranksets if you don't care about the crank matching the vintage of the bike. I have 170 mm in square taper, ISIS, and FSA Power Drive styles. Some have bottom brackets but I would have to check and make sure they are for 68 mm shells...

Powder coat is usually pretty hard. I doubt if you would scratch it but you could cut a couple of discs of helicopter tape slightly larger than the boss diameter.

Has the powder coat closed the hole diameters so that the bosses no longer fit?

I know that I have a pair of M730 arms here but don't know about rings to go with them. Bike co-ops are great for parts like this. Perhaps you have one that's reasonably close by.

Your RX100 should have a 122.5 mm bottom bracket spindle. There were a few MTB cranks that used that length which should give closer to the gearing you want: DX MT60, LX M550, XT M730. There are many others that will require a bottom bracket swap. https://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html

I would have to check but I might have a NOS 32 or 34 Uniglide cog. Guessing that you would have to grind the rivet heads off your cassette to change the large cog, but it's easily done. Uniglide is circa 1990 and looks different from Hyperglide cogs but would work fine for a bail-out gear.

I'd like some rise on the stem as the frame is one size smaller than I'd prefer. I'd rather have black than silver but will consider all.

Do you have a 28 large cog now? SunRace makes an 11-34 7 speed cassette. Only $13 at Universal Cycles but they are out of stock right now. It's unfortunate that the bike doesn't have the Coda 22/32/42 crank that the catalog shows. Even with a 34 cog you won't have a low gear comparable to...

Nice looking bike. 56 cm?

Pretty sure a standard Shimano or Campagnolo guide would work.

Looks like a Cannondale to me. Post pictures of the bike and as many of the components as possible. I will try to figure out what year and model it is.

The bottom bracket will have the notched lock ring/pin holes in the cup with two flats on the other cup - or it will likely have a replacement bottom bracket with splines on the inside of both cups. Splined cup (sealed bearing) bottom brackets became the standard in the 1990s, and have been...

The paint bubbling and corrosion is usually because sweat collects in places where it can get under the paint (cable guides, water bottle bosses) and the salt goes to work on the aluminum. A good rinse every now and then will help in preventing corrosion. If you have significant bubbling you...

None of my touring bikes are newer than 1990, so have the Tange forks with the cast crown. It's possible that Cannondale sourced the tig welded forks from a supplier that didn't thread them. I would think that with a good light you could see whether the bosses are threaded. If not you could...

Looks like it's set up pretty well for what you want to do and in great condition. Most any brand of rack (Blackburn, etc.) should be adaptable to fit. Pretty sure you have tapped holes at the rear brake cable stop for the upper mount. I have some new Cannondale racks here, might be coming...

Should be threaded. What year touring frame? I can check a couple of mine but thought they were M5 or #10-32. Yes, the cage bosses are essentially Riv-nuts. They are squeezed into the frame and expanded with a tool that looks much like a pop rivet tool. If you can thread the tool in...

Bottom bracket is the term for the crank bearings and spindle assembly. Cannondale pioneered the BB30 standard, Shimano the Octalink, Campagnolo the Utra Torque, others the ISIS. Cannondale used all of these at some point, and other types as well. I might be interested in the Coda crank if...

There may be production records at the factory that would provide more information but we don't have access to them. Scalpel does not show in the catalogs until 2003, so MD may be the size rather than the production date. If later than 2001 production it should have had a bar code sticker, but...

I have the matching handlebar bag but not the panniers.

Your original ones might be in the top tube. Perhaps you can rattle them out or use a vacuum with a clean bag. It's been a long time since I installed one and don't remember the diameter. I would think you could use something like small tacks. Brass would be good. I wonder if toothpicks...