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The 135 mm is the width of the rear hub, from the outside of one axle lock nut to the outside of the other. This corresponds to the width of the frame between the rear dropouts. I would think that your hub and frame are 135 mm, but they could be 130. It will be easier to find 135 mm 26"...

Thanks for posting. If you get to IL some time I'll be happy to let you ride it.

Is there something wrong with your original fork? If so, you could check with Craig at Mendon Cyclesmith about rebuilding it. If you are specifically looking to upgrade, a Lefty would be the logical option. Craig would be the guy to talk to about that as well.

Do you want to keep your current rear hub and/or shifters? My guess is that you are going to be limited to a 7 speed cassette if the hub is the original Deore LX.

I think that has been mentioned by others. Are you sure it's at the time when the fork is trying to compress? I seem to recall that the noise typically happens after hitting the bump. There is probably a place to put a shim to eliminate the small amount of play. Let us know what you find out.

You might try sending a PM to MikeA. He has a lot of knowledge about Cannondale forks, but he may be more of a Headshok guy.

No significant clues there as far as I can see. I'd call it a modified 1988 ST1000 if I owned it.

Cannondalespares.com has a couple of Lefty springs on their site, but not that one. You might check with them, perhaps they can source a used one.

You have been shopping already. Have you found everything you need?

That is a tough one. Has it been repainted? It's a touring frame and the serial number would indicate a 1988 model. No touring model that I know of came with cantilever brakes in the rear and caliper brakes in the front. I suspect that the fork was switched at some point and the frame...

Have you checked with Mendon Cyclesmith?

Cool project. Looks like you are planning a serious restoration.

I have four Silk Roads but have not had to work on the dampers. The only thing I've done is pull the fork and lubricate the roller bearings. Check with Craig at Mendon Cyclesmith. He will know whether parts are available for your fork.

No friction mode with STI shifters. That's one of the advantages of bar ends for touring bikes. If something gets out of true you can switch to friction mode and ride on. Also if an STI shifter fails, you are going to be stuck in one gear.

Glad you got it working. I'm using 9 speed chains on all of my 6-9 speed builds these days. They may not work well with the old twisted tooth Shimano cogs though. I don't think I've tried one with them.

Bikes look to be in nice shape other than the cracked swing arm. No prices so likely won't be a great deal but nice to look at. https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/d/chicago-cannondale-se2000-and-se1000/7422754899.html

I hope that they work. I would still like to see better pictures of the setup that you have, because I've never seen those plastic bosses before.

First message was that she liked the bike but I don't know if she has ridden it yet. My biggest gripe about the current state of bike building is that a given frame can have so many different component requirements. I used to be able to keep enough parts on hand to build most any road, touring...

Shimano did make those with both flat and concave backs, but the concave ones were shaped to fit standard steel down tubes.

Sounds like you are working through the options. Sometimes I think we have too many. Good to have wheels that work with either type brake. I dug a NOS Rocky Mountain frame out of the attic to build for a friend (Christmas gift for his GF) and found that it would take either type of brake in...