1990 SM400

FPrue1304

Well-Known Member
So - finally some progress. This project became way larger than anticipated. As stated earlier I found a nice 3.0 frame in 18 inch which fits me way better. So I used the original 20 inch frame as a test mule and went on to restore it. Will open another thread for this.

Anyways, the fork is almost finished and now I am working on the frame, applying the decals and clearcoat. Still torn about the decals:

1. Headtube - use the original Cannondale decal from the early 90ies or the "correct" yellow decal from late 90ies, early 2000? Maybe use the original decal on the head tube and add the yellow decal on the bottom side of the down tube. Some real "Saecos" have that combined with www.cannondale.com. It is a mix of Cannondale Logos anyways, in the "Handmade in USA" decal that goes on the top of the top tube there is that other Cannondale logo which came in between.

2. Is it accurate to add the "Alcalyte" decals or am I claiming something what the 3.0 frame clearly is not?

The other decals seem a nice mix of original decals and those that would likely be added on a race ready Team Seaco frame. That is the theme of the project: "an imaginary gravel race version of the 3.0 frame in the Saeco theme" or "Taking a red Seaco race frame off-road", respectively.

Thanks!

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FPrue1304

Well-Known Member
Thanks. Agreed. No Alcalyte, that came in the later 90ies. And on to clear coating! Actually the powder coating did not exactly match viper red (a bit more orange...) but it looks quite good and will be shiny with the clear coat on. I sanded it slightly with 1000 paper to make sure the decals stick.

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JohnnyD

Well-Known Member
Thanks. Agreed. No Alcalyte, that came in the later 90ies. And on to clear coating! Actually the powder coating did not exactly match viper red (a bit more orange...) but it looks quite good and will be shiny with the clear coat on. I sanded it slightly with 1000 paper to make sure the decals stick.

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At first glance you wouldn't know that this is a '90
 

FPrue1304

Well-Known Member
Conversion to a gravel bike, but for rougher and steeper trails. I would not call it a restoration, since this is built up as almost new. But the frame is from 1990 and repainted to a Saeco lookalike, but with period correct details such as "Aluminum 3.0" or the "Patented..." stickers on the seat stays, etc. Strikingly beautiful. Can't wait to to take it for a spin.

Wheels are "workhorses"; I actually have another set which should look even better, will change soon.

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1x set up.

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FPrue1304

Well-Known Member
A small detail in the second lower right field what i am particularly happy about because it works so smooth and was a super simple set sup while I was able to combine road shifters with a true MTB set up in the rear. 1st gear with 52 is quite noisy and I guess that will be for special situations. 2nd gear with 42 teeth much smoother and that should master pretty much everything.

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JohnnyD

Well-Known Member
I love the color ! I have been tempted in the past to "convert" my trust old M700 into a similar build as a "gravel" bike. I just can't bring myself to install drop bars though. Maybe if I could find a good used 1 1/8 threadless Pepperoni fork and use the 1 1/4 to 1 1/8 headset I have on my E-bay watchlist.. HMMM

Nope, can't do drop bars on THAT bike..nope never.
 

FPrue1304

Well-Known Member
It is a one inch pepperoni fork in the size for a 20 inch frame (while this is a 18 inch). Used a treadless 1 inch headset and clamped on a 1 1/8 stem with an adapter shim underneath. The excess length of the larger sized fork provided plenty of room (below the threads) to clamp on the stem. I actually have one of those one inch sized crazy Cinelli stems, about 20 mm longer than the one installed (as I thought that would make a nice reference to the road bikes), but that would severely limit my choice for steering bars. This one is actually a Cannondale stem from a 2009 CAAD9.
 

JohnnyD

Well-Known Member
Bike looks great. I haven't used SRAM other than 10 speed. Good to know that MTB drivetrain will work with road shifters. What is the handlebar?
I hadn't noticed the choice of drivetrain. SRAM Force and GX AXS mix ..very interesting choice since it will allow you to program and fine tune pull ratios.
 

FPrue1304

Well-Known Member
Bike looks great. I haven't used SRAM other than 10 speed. Good to know that MTB drivetrain will work with road shifters. What is the handlebar?
Just a no name piece made of carbon and I found the form intriguing and gave it a try. As the steering bar is quite low, I liked that it has a minimal drop. I think I will like it - a first ride felt good.
 

FPrue1304

Well-Known Member
I hadn't noticed the choice of drivetrain. SRAM Force and GX AXS mix ..very interesting choice since it will allow you to program and fine tune pull ratios.
Yes - amazingly uncomplicated. But AXS road bike levers for rim brakes are a dying product…
 

JohnnyD

Well-Known Member
Yes - amazingly uncomplicated. But AXS road bike levers for rim brakes are a dying product…
I noticed, which is what got me thinking of Shimano GRX levers and Magura HS series brakes. Magura brakes can use Shimano hose and levers. It wouldn't be a streamlined looking install, but technically functional.
 

JohnnyD

Well-Known Member
I noticed, which is what got me thinking of Shimano GRX levers and Magura HS series brakes. Magura brakes can use Shimano hose and levers. It wouldn't be a streamlined looking install, but technically functional.
There is also the new wireless derailleurs from Wheeltop 7-14 speed and come in hyd and cable .
 

JohnnyD

Well-Known Member
It seems though you cannot mix wheeltop mtb rd and road shifters. that is the trick with sram, they let you mix.
I would think that would be a simple programming change to their app that would allow you to control a MTB rear derailleur with road shifters.

They are planning to release a gravel version sometime soon. That is probably why they aren't allowing the ability to mix them.
 
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FPrue1304

Well-Known Member
I am sure - but if you cannot buy the pieces separately but have buy both sets, road and MTB, then SRAM would be the more economic choice even if this enabled softwarewise
 
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