JohnnyD
Well-Known Member
Viper Red looks so so nice on 3.0 series frames..
1990 SM400
- Thread starter FPrue1304
- Start date
So it took a while to receive the other 18 inch frame. Looks very encouraging, already adjusted the derailleur hanger and the set up with an ahead conversion looks also very good. Now on to preparing and painting the frame and fork. The frame seems to be in a better condition than the red one and no damage visible.
Derailleur adjusted or might just use a new one that I found recently.
The headtube of the 18 inch frame is much shorter than the 20 inch frame. I would say, shorter by 3 cm ora little bit more than 1 inch. The fork which came for a 20 inch frame thus has a lot of space for inserting an 1 to 1 1/8 inch adapter and clamp on a stem plus add a couple of spacers. I have an extra long expander to support the shaft, but i think this is not really necessary.
I am happy, because the 18 inch version is shorter and lower. Should fit me better.
Derailleur adjusted or might just use a new one that I found recently.
The headtube of the 18 inch frame is much shorter than the 20 inch frame. I would say, shorter by 3 cm ora little bit more than 1 inch. The fork which came for a 20 inch frame thus has a lot of space for inserting an 1 to 1 1/8 inch adapter and clamp on a stem plus add a couple of spacers. I have an extra long expander to support the shaft, but i think this is not really necessary.
I am happy, because the 18 inch version is shorter and lower. Should fit me better.
I never thought about running a threaded fork threadless but I guess it would work as long as the stem is installed with some engagement on the unthreaded part of the steerer tube. Are you going to buy a threadless headset?
You can drive the pins out of the cable guides and shake them out of the frame. Hopefully the guides will still be usable. Guessing that they could be pop riveted on if the expansion parts are damaged. I can measure the holes on a frame I have but guessing 3/32 rivets would be close.
You can drive the pins out of the cable guides and shake them out of the frame. Hopefully the guides will still be usable. Guessing that they could be pop riveted on if the expansion parts are damaged. I can measure the holes on a frame I have but guessing 3/32 rivets would be close.
Brian still has the reproduction guides available:
shop.vintagecannondale.com
Cable Guide for Cannondale A113 Top Tube
A113 Guide for Cannondale. Top tube Cable guides for road, mountain, and hybrid frames, years 1986 - 1999. Made from 6061 aluminum and anodized (black) for protection. They will not shrink or flex in the sun. Designed for 5mm housing (A113). Contains 3 guides and 6 pins to attach. Made in...
I'm not sure what the first year for Viper Red was but there was Red Shred on the 1990 SM800, Team Red on the SM400, and Inferno red on the SR600 and SR800. I always thought the yellow decals on the later red bikes looked better than the black or white of the earlier ones.
Now, on to decals and clear coating. I want to turn this into a "off road" Seaco version from the 90ies. Any views? I will add the Aluminum 3.0 stickers instead of "CAAD", because that is what the frame is, same on the fork, and the original stickers on the seat tube.
Should I use the "true, accurate" Cannondale logo on the head tube (black diagonal lines) or the yellow "c" decal?
Should I use the "true, accurate" Cannondale logo on the head tube (black diagonal lines) or the yellow "c" decal?
I would probably use the original head tube decal. Bike is going to look great either way.
JohnnyD
Well-Known Member
I'd try a brass wire brush, steel may be too hard and could damage the threads in the aluminum . I had take my M700 to a LBS to have the BB treads redone after removing the original BB and finding damage to the threads done when it was installed originally in 1992! I'd have done it myself, but the cost of the tool isn't worth it for me to buy it as a "just in case I need it" (the park tool version is $600+) tool.
OH yeah, the bike LOOKS super amazing. I kind of want to repaint my M700 but can't find any decals to match the originals.. I did find some M800 Beast of the East decals from that yea on e-bay, but the seller is in Hungary and to be honest I am leery if they can change the M800 to an M700 properly to make the bike complete
OH yeah, the bike LOOKS super amazing. I kind of want to repaint my M700 but can't find any decals to match the originals.. I did find some M800 Beast of the East decals from that yea on e-bay, but the seller is in Hungary and to be honest I am leery if they can change the M800 to an M700 properly to make the bike complete
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Chased the bottom bracket threads and test mounted the cranks. Road cranks (DUB, narrow version), 165 mm cranks, 1x 46 chain wheel - very pleased with the fit but will change to a 40 in the final build up. I was not really expecting the 46 to fit but this gives me flexibility. These old frames are marvellous - long and low and road part compatible. Glad the bottom bracket is sorted out. That would have been a "deal breaker"; these frames are listed super seldom and I was so happy to find a good 18 inch.
Will do decals and and clear paint.
Fitting the decals and align them nicely will probably be the hardest part of the entire project.
Will do decals and and clear paint.
Fitting the decals and align them nicely will probably be the hardest part of the entire project.
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JohnnyD
Well-Known Member
It will be the most critical point of the rebuild, but OMG what an amazing job you've done so far. I am finding it hard to come up with an adjective to describe the color of red you chose. Spectacular and WOW come to mind.
I think you are helping me decide that repainting my M700 is the best next project bike for me!