1988 Black Lightning
- Thread starter IdahoBrett
- Start date
letsbike
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IdahoBrett
Well-Known Member
I began to wonder myself. When sizing I did the large chain ring to large cog, plus two pins. But removing/reinstalling the rear wheel I felt the chain might be better longer.
I tend to have my initial cable tension too tight. Being aware of that I paid extra attention to that detail with this project.
My initial difficulty was that I was getting a skip at the second to largest cog when shifting in the larger cog direction. Is that up shifting or down? I can’t keep that straight in my head. I wasn’t able to get a nice solid click with the shifter at that position.
The second day I started from the beginning. Set the limit screws with no cable tension. Paid better attention to initial cable tension and gave myself plenty of barrel thread for tightening. That method yielded a skip on the second to smallest cog. Aha! I then rotated the barrel in smaller increments than the day before to index. I progressed faster in achieving desired shifting between cogs compared to the previous day. Probably because I didn’t have to undo large cable adjustments.
I was in a self imposed rush to go for a ride and getting back to spending time with my kids. On the stand the shifting from large to small cog was great. Stands to reason that it would be, as that’s the direction the RD spring tension pulls. Shifting small to large isn’t quite as smooth in the middle.
I went with that as it was mid afternoon and about as warm as the day was going to be. My ride was going to be a short one through the neighborhood. One small hill and not much speed.
It’s the first bike I’ve completely torn down and reassembled. So one could say I was being cautious about my workmanship and not going pedaling fast and rowing through the gears. Was I scared? Nope. I’ve got a job that is very physically demanding at times. Being out on disability because of a bike crash entered my thought process. Is that old man think?
IdahoBrett
Well-Known Member
Went for a longer New Years Day ride on BLII. Enough to row through the gears. Needs a bit of tuning still. But wow what a ride!
Very responsive. And dare I say wanting to launch better than my CAAD3! It just wants to get up to speed quick.
Down tube shifting not quite second nature yet. Rounding a downhill corner and shifting to the big chain ring with such a responsive bike on the front end did cause a momentary mental oops moment…
Very responsive. And dare I say wanting to launch better than my CAAD3! It just wants to get up to speed quick.
Down tube shifting not quite second nature yet. Rounding a downhill corner and shifting to the big chain ring with such a responsive bike on the front end did cause a momentary mental oops moment…
From the photo it does appear that your chain is a bit short. Shouldn't affect shifting except in large ring and larger cogs combos but doesn't look ideal.
People describe down vs. up shifting differently. To me, down shifting is always going to a lower gear ratio, whether on crank or cogs.
Absolutely not old man think, everyone should be aware of the possible results of a crash on a bike. I've gone over the bars on a bike twice. The first time I landed on my side and was able to get up and ride away but I had a football sized bruise that stretched from my navel to my kidney on my right side. Very ugly and took a long time to be rid of. The 2nd time was worse, broken collar bone and concussion. I was able to get to a phone and call for help but passed out before they got there. I got off easy both times. If you want to read about worse you can start here:
https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=302484
Let me know all the parts in the drivetrain. You might have something that's not compatible with the rest.
IdahoBrett
Well-Known Member
Other than new cables and chain I believe it’s all original parts. I think it’s me. I seem to have it indexed fine on the 3 smallest cogs. But the next 2 are noisy while riding. Moving the shifter a tiny bit while pedaling I get the solid click, and sometimes it’ll skip a gear.
IdahoBrett
Well-Known Member
Must be my procedure. I can either get it to skip 2nd to largest cog or 2nd to smallest. Either way I get consistent shifts through the middle. If I tune out of either end I get shifting issues in the middle.
Any chance you have the cable attached in slightly the wrong place? That can affect how far the derailleur moves with each click. Other than that, is it possible the freewheel has been changed? SunTour made a narrow 6 speed freewheel and a "normal" one. Guessing it came with a normal one.
Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Frame and Cassette Spacing Crib Sheet
Useful dimensions and conversions for the cyblist/mechanic: hub and sprocket cluster spacing
sheldonbrown.com
IdahoBrett
Well-Known Member
I'll have to check later. But I'm not remembering if it says Suntour Winner Pro on the FW. It would be 7 speed for this one. The SB link has dimensions for the Ultra and the MicroDrive 7 speed FW. I don't know where the Winner Pro fits. But it's worth a look. Thanks.
I'm second guessing chain length. Or even chain brand. It's a KMC 8 speed 1/2X3/32...
I'm second guessing chain length. Or even chain brand. It's a KMC 8 speed 1/2X3/32...
Last edited:
IdahoBrett
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IdahoBrett
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Grazie!
IdahoBrett
Well-Known Member
The previously linked Suntour pdf, page 10 was the solution to my shifting woes. The selector ring on the rear shifter was not selected in “UL”. It wasn’t selected in any of the 3 choices. But the shifter “clicked” when I used it, so I didn’t think I had a shifter problem.
Once UL was dialed in on the shift lever I gave the gears a row while in the stand. I had a slight chatter in the 4th largest cog. A half turn Anti-clockwise and she was right as rain. Shifts great through all 7 just fine.
It’s an excellent 31 page pdf. I’m not a Suntour Accushift expert after reading it, but I’m no longer ignorant.(about this one topic
)
Once UL was dialed in on the shift lever I gave the gears a row while in the stand. I had a slight chatter in the 4th largest cog. A half turn Anti-clockwise and she was right as rain. Shifts great through all 7 just fine.
It’s an excellent 31 page pdf. I’m not a Suntour Accushift expert after reading it, but I’m no longer ignorant.(about this one topic
)
I didn't recall that those shifters had two index positions but I was thinking the gold Sprint stuff was 6 speed. I don't know if I have a 7 speed Winner Pro freewheel here, guessing not. I'm wondering if all the 7 speed freewheels and cassettes were the same spacing barring Microdrive, which was a later MTB cassette. I have a lot more SunTour cassettes than freewheels. That Accushift bulletin has me wondering about several things. I was sure there were 6 speed Accushift levers for instance, but the document says "no Ultra 6 freewheel will work with any Accushift shift lever". I guess that means that all 6 speed levers were for regular rather than Ultra spaced freewheels. Seems that your shifters could be used with a 5 or 6 speed regular spaced freewheel when in the RE position. By the way, the freewheels referred to as "a" are Alpha and have an alpha symbol on the outer face.
IdahoBrett
Well-Known Member
About to put new tires/tubes on and thought I’d put new brake pads on. They’re not rock hard but doubt their performance is very good. I’ve got the gears figured, about to put on new rubber and going to pedal to a high rate of speed. Stopping is a valid concern. I think
You might try filing the outer layer of hard pad material down. May or may not be a layer with more grip underneath.
Someone at Cane Creek may be able to advise you on new pad choices. Cane Creek is DiaCompe's high end brand.
Someone at Cane Creek may be able to advise you on new pad choices. Cane Creek is DiaCompe's high end brand.
IdahoBrett
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the Cane Creek reference. Will check.
Best I could come up with for a number is OPC-30. I got that from Dia-compe’s Taiwan site. They look similar but sans forward arrow identifier. No dimensions either. There are a couple listings on the bay for OPC-30KX that look the same but are listed for BMX.
I did dress the pads with some 600 grit this morning. It’s currently snowing, so my planned afternoon ride is not taking place. Too bad I got the new tires installed also and managed to not pinch flat a tube during installation.
