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Thanks for the photos. I haven't owned one of those cranks and have never seen one up close. That sharp edge and small radius between the arm and the "hub" is a logical place for a stress crack.

You might get by for riding purposes with a Shimano or Sugino left arm. Where is the crack?

At least it's inexpensive.

What rear derailleur does it have? I know Shimano made some that were reverse pull but I don't remember what models.

I hope that you got it sorted out. There are so many different brand specific bottom brackets these days. Some brands have cranks that have the same spindle diameter on both sides for one crank model, and different diameters for another model of crank. I have an FSA crank coming from eBay and...

Still a dream bike decades later. I have several 1992 models, have to resist the temptation to try for a complete set.

Check the serial numbers page. Your serial number checks out as: 6 = 126 mm rear spacing, 56 = 56 cm frame, 0989 = September 1989 production, 0095 = the 95th frame produced in that month.

I haven't owned a tandem but Cannondale typically measured frames from center of crank to top of seat tube minus 1".

That RT3000 is a beauty. I used to do a mid week group ride that had a couple on a tandem as one of the regulars. I remember struggling to keep in contact with them in rolling hills as they could establish a big gap on the downhill sections. I see Cannondale tandems for sale occasionally but...

Quite the snow event. Football fans in Buffalo had to shovel out the stadium to get to their seats. I would have thought they had an existing plan for snow removal but perhaps there wasn't time.

No snow to amount to anything yet here but we are having highs in the 20s. It's supposed to get to 40 on Wednesday but that's the only day above freezing for the next week. I used to ride in those kind of temps but I am always cold these days.

Beautiful.

Looks like the tape could be original.

There are some replacement guides on ebay. I will look for them...

these might work: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=41887&category=1613

I've twisted a lot of safety wire over the years, but never on a headset nut.

The V on the bar code indicates 2010. Not sure if that's manufacture date or model year after the ownership change but it used to be manufacture date. So a 2010 or 2011 model.