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Here is an answer to someone looking for a FD replacement: It seems like an innocent question, but the situation can be maddening when a replacement FD is needed for any of the 30-42-52 cranks. Front derailleurs have a spec that has been called by Shimano both "Min. difference between top and...

A short part to an explanation that I read: Shimano in their infinite wisdom has decided that for 2009 all of the road triple front derailleur’s they make, both 9 & 10 speed will have at the least a minimum requirement of an 11 tooth difference between the large and middle ring, for example...

And I don’t have a barrel nut for fine tuning cable tension on the front derailleur cable like I do on the rear cable. As pictured here: Not sure what that means going forward. I’m learnin’.

I somehow missed this label on the rear derailleur…doh! edit: rear derailleur cable pull is the same 8 or 9 speed. That is the info that I’ve found

Thanks! I may have found a substitute. Meant for a 9 speed. It’ll work, but it will have some chain rub during “cross chaining”. Might bother me or not. The “correct” one for proper chain ring tooth count and 8 speed is the goal. But not an absolute must have.

I found some good data while looking for a fd. Yes a 9 speed triple front derailleur will work. As long as it is meant for proper tooth count. Shimano changed the spread from 10T to 11T some time after 2007. Along with their front chainrings going to 50/39/30 (and others ie. 10 speed). Versus...

Rehabbing a 2001 R400. The Shimano Sora 3304 return spring retaining portion of FD is broken off. FD no worky. I've discovered that the rabbit hole is very deep when it comes to front derailleurs...

The front derailleur needs replacing. I discovered the L and H screws were doing nothing to move the cage. I found the derailleur spring retention end broken off. The derailleur is the Sora type. What is compatible? ie. Ultegra, Tiagra, 105 Thanks. I understand the part of making sure it is a...

Great idea! There is a generic one locally on CL. Might have to pick that one up. Outside and inside stands. Bike back together. Chain wear is almost non existent according to the gauge. Rear derailleur shifts ok. Front, not at all. Cable tension is pretty slack. Off to YT for a Park Video for...

Thanks @JohnnyD Yes I do find I enjoy working on a bike. All my hobbies over the years have to have that component to it for me to be satisfied. I must tinker at some level. Albeit this is more of a rehab than a restoration. The bike is in better shape than I first thought. I’ve been back and...

Put new rubber on the rims. Did a detailed cleaning. It’s in better shape than I thought. I initially thought I’d be disassembling the crank and bb. No play or wobble. No reason to. I don’t know if I’ll pull the headset apart yet. I ran out of time to reinstall the cassette. Maybe I’m being...

New spoke installed. I got the wheel true “enough”. I did “slip” with the spoke wrench. Twice. And yes the flats aren’t flat anymore. Not blaming anyone but myself here, but I believe the new nipple to be of softer metal than the originals. I adjusted some of those as well is how I figured...

I read the bike classifieds like “normal” folks would read the news. With my morning coffee. I’ll keep my eyes peeled for you Ben. The 1996 catalog shows a yellow M900 with the P Bone fork. I visited South Australia (for work) many moons ago. I have fond memories. At least the ones that...

Just returned from my LBS….my wallet is strangely lighter…

About what I gathered from reading about a single spoke breaking. Just replace it, make the wheel reasonably true and ride it. Also from what I read I’ll need to remove the cassette in order to replace the spoke. My LBS has a good supply of Park Tools. So I’ll get the FR-5 series tool.

Not that I have any notion to “upgrade” either of my road bikes. But perusing the local classifieds for bike parts, especially crank parts. I’ve noticed some ads post what length chainstays the parts are compatible with. Not knowing what my frame(s) dimensions are I wouldn’t have a clue for...

Yes

With tire removed I‘ve gotten a better look at the wheel. Don’t believe it is bent. The biggest lateral deflection is at the broken spoke at the rim. In my inexperienced self I’m going with spoke tension. There is one non OEM spoke nipple as well, so I wonder if the overall spoke tension isn’t...

Monumental task. Someone that is OCD with data would be required for that task.

I’ll have to remove the tire to be sure. But I think it is bent. High spot to the non-drive side between the tape with the broken spoke hub hole in the center.