Upgrading groupset on 1992 T600

[architect]

As I put more miles on my 1992 T600, I'm curious on where to start researching potential upgrades to the groupset. It currently has Exage 400LX components with 30/40/50 chainrings and 13-30 cassette, but the rear hub and wheel are replacements. The rear hub is also missing a lock nut for the cone adjustment so it always works its way loose. Front hub/wheel are OEM and seem fine. At a minimum, the brake and shifter cables and housings should be replaced as they are cracked and rough.

My first and most likely thought is to just find an Exage rear hub and call it a day. BUT if I go further...

Is it worth upgrading the components? Is there a typical route to go (i.e. everyone always chooses 7700, or 105, or SRAM something)? I was also unable to find any specific information about the bottom bracket. It's a square taper Deore, but I don't have info on threads/sizing. Do people typically just leave the OEM bottom bracket and limit crankset choices to square tapers?

Any pointers/links/etc are useful. Cheers!

 

[letsbike]

How about posting a picture of the drive side of your bicycle? Looking at the picture of your bike that you posted earlier I'd say that there are better quality parts available compared to you OEM drive train. You might not notice performance wise however. But things do wear over time. Wheels would be a great way to start, but beware, $1000 for a Wheel set is pretty common. Living in Portland; I'd contact Sugar Wheel Works. Bottom brackets are easy. Just replace it with a Shimano cartridge bottom bracket with the exact (or closest available) spindle length to what you have. Since bottom brackets sit close to the ground and get their fair share of water I'd replace it solely as a maintenance item. I would have the headset serviced too. That's a mighty old bike. Like I said before, if you replace the crank, you'll never notice the difference with the old one, performance wise. Chainrings wear however, but new ones usually cost as much as a whole crank. Maybe someone on this site could help in that regard. I'd say check out the Rivendell bicycle website. There are two pretty nice square taper cranksets there. You could also get some better climbing gears with a 26-36-46 chainring set up.
Shift levers, a rear derailleur, and getting rid of your 7 speed cassette are other items. I personally would replace the downtube shift levers with cable stops, add bar end friction levers, and put on whatever cassette you want that will fit your dropout spacing. Most rear derailleurs shift great. More money gets you lighter components.
I won't be upset if you don't follow any of this advice. Ask one hundred people and you will get one hundred answers. Enjoy your bicycle journey.

 

[architect]

All good insights. Neglected to post the only drive side photo I have. I've been poking around looking at various wheel builds this week. That would be a good place to shave some ounces off the original 25 lb weight. I'll have a look at the bottom bracket this weekend and see what might be available in the same spindle length.

 

[letsbike]

That's a pretty low end crank, at least the chainrings are (although nicer than the original equipment crank on my 1997 T500). I think that you might find something better to dress up the bike plus give you some lower gearing. As long as the derailleur is functional I'd keep it. A nice upgrade is replacing the original bushing style jockey wheels with new ones that have bearings instead (see attached picture). Jockey wheels have flat teeth when new. Yours are pointy, a sure sign of wear. Count the teeth and replace with the same number.
Looks like your pedal is missing the end cap. That will contaminate the bearings eventually. I'd also get a couple of stainless steel M5 screws for your rack holes midway down your front fork (available at a hardware store). The fork is made out of steel & you want to keep moisture out. All the screws should get a bit of Grease on the threads to keep them from seizing.
Wheels not only roll, but are also an important component of your braking system. On an older used bicycle inspect the rims for excessive wear, cracks, and gouging. Also check for cracks where the spoke holes are. Any sign of wear means you should replace the wheel. Shimano is one of the few companies that still uses loose ball bearings, as apposed to cartridge bearings, in their hubs. Good news is that makes them serviceable. If the rims look good, have your local bike shop service your hubs. It's pretty cheap.
Seven speed cassettes are still available (try Performance bike online, or order the tandems limited catalog, they have some odd, and older, stuff for low gearing).
If you are mechanically inclined, buy a crank puller tool (I like Park tools) & a socket to install, and remove, Shimano cartridge bottom brackets. You'll get a lot of use out of them and save some money in the bargain.
One last thought: Don't get hung up on trying to save weight on your bicycle. Shaving ounces won't make you any faster, but riding your bicycle and strengthening your legs will. Cannondale built that frame beefy to achieve its purpose; to carry heavy loads over long distances.

 

[black lightning 1987]

The lock nut for the hub should be easy to find if you want to keep the present rear wheel - if only for a spare. If my bike I would keep it pretty much original except for maintenance items. Bar end shifters would be a nice addition. The indexed 7 speed Shimano bar end shifters are getting hard to find but they do exist. Another option would be SunTour ratcheting friction shifters. I've seen them also branded as Raleigh and Schwinn. I'm pretty sure the Exage 400 crank used a 121 mm spindle. I'm not sure anyone makes one currently. You might need to replace with a 118 or 122.5 depending on how much clearance you have to the chainstay with the 121. You want one for a 68 mm British threaded shell.

Suntour Bar End Shifters Friction vintage touring road bicycle bike japan | eBay

Suntour Bar End Shifters Friction vintage touring road bicycle bike japan

www.ebay.com

 

[letsbike]

Speaking of tandems limited, I saw they have a closeout on Cannondale Coda saddles for $7.50 a piece.
If money is no object check out the White Inustrustries bottom bracket. Made in California. Available at Rivendell Bikes.

 

[black lightning 1987]

Speaking of tandems limited, I saw they have a closeout on Cannondale Coda saddles for $7.50 a piece.
If money is no object check out the White Inustrustries bottom bracket. Made in California. Available at Rivendell Bikes.

What model of saddle? I couldn't find it on their site.

 

[letsbike]

What model of saddle? I couldn't find it on their site.

I would call them and ask. They're pretty low tech. They still mail out print catalogs.
Try the Susan says link on their website.

 

[architect]

The lock nut for the hub should be easy to find if you want to keep the present rear wheel - if only for a spare. If my bike I would keep it pretty much original except for maintenance items. Bar end shifters would be a nice addition. The indexed 7 speed Shimano bar end shifters are getting hard to find but they do exist. Another option would be SunTour ratcheting friction shifters. I've seen them also branded as Raleigh and Schwinn. I'm pretty sure the Exage 400 crank used a 121 mm spindle. I'm not sure anyone makes one currently. You might need to replace with a 118 or 122.5 depending on how much clearance you have to the chainstay with the 121. You want one for a 68 mm British threaded shell.

Turns out the lock nut isn't missing, it just keeps coming loose. It's not actually locked against the cone nut farther in. The hub is an older Alivio hub and uses a slightly different construction from what I'm used to so it is harder to access the inner nut to lock it against the lock nut. Might just tighten the lock nut down and add some blue loctite until I figure out what I am doing with the rest of the groupset. I did replace the crusty pedals with some flat/SPD dual pedals so that I can still commute in regular shoes.

 

[black lightning 1987]

Could you loosen the left side nuts enough so that you could get wrenches on the right side and lock them, then go back and adjust and lock the left side?

 

[architect]

After putting a couple hundred miles on the bike and inspecting the worn chainrings, cassette, and jockey wheels, I decided to do a more comprehensive groupset upgrade. Similar to the pedal bearings, the bottom bracket was a disaster and a LBS saved my bacon by helping me remove the half that was driving me crazy. The front and rear fenders were each broken more than I thought and were removed, but some form of rear fender will make a return soon.

As for the upgrades, I wanted a wide range of gears for the hills near me and I went with a GRX 2x11 setup. I bought the parts individually as lightly used or new takeoffs so it's a mix of the GRX 600 and GRX 800 groupsets. The only issue was that all 11 speed GRX brifters are for hydraulic brakes so I grabbed some used Shimano 105 11 speed shifters for mechanical brakes. It took me longer than I care to admit to fix some rear derailleur shifting/indexing issues but now it works like a charm.

I kept the old parts in case I get a different frame and want to return this one back towards a more original form. For the moment it is a more than capable commuter and weekender.

 

[letsbike]

It looks great! I think that bike is destined to get some major mileage over the upcoming years.
Were you able to fix the rear hub lock nut issue?

 

[architect]

It looks great! I think that bike is destined to get some major mileage over the upcoming years.
We're you able to fix the rear hub lock nut issue?

I was able to sort it out. When I had the old cassette off I just snugged up the lock nut more than I had in the past and it stayed. I think I was afraid of adding too much torque, but it didn't take all that much to get it to stick. Took it on a 40 mile ride today over quite a few bumps and rough pavement and everything is still in place. No wobble, and shifting is great.

 

[letsbike]

Good news!