As a lover of patriotic themed bikes I'm trying to identify the bike in this video. I can't seem to find it in the catalogs at all. Any idea what model year this is so I know what to hunt for? Not sure of the significance of the "Paramount Racing" on the top tube. Has characteristics of some 2006 models but I can't find it. Thanks!
Trying to ID CAAD8 bike.
- Thread starter jamesdak
- Start date
I don't see that paint in the catalog, but it looks to be a 2005 or 2006 frame.
For more R-W-B Cannondales, check out the R1000 and F2000SX in the 2000 catalog.
For more R-W-B Cannondales, check out the R1000 and F2000SX in the 2000 catalog.
Will do, thanks!
There is one like in the video that I found for sale but I'm trying to figure out a good price.
Except for my Klein I mainly an old steel guy so I don't know much about values on Cannondales. Still, the Klein has been such a pleasant surprise that I now want to scratch that Cannondale itch.
I've seen many of your bikes, it's a great collection.
I paid around $450 for a CAAD9 frameset a few years back, and $950 recently for a nice CAAD6 with Record 10, Neutron wheels, and Hollowgram crank. Here's a nice discussion of people's favorite CAAD model. The CAAD8 got some votes.
https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=252494&highlight=favorite+cannondale
I paid around $450 for a CAAD9 frameset a few years back, and $950 recently for a nice CAAD6 with Record 10, Neutron wheels, and Hollowgram crank. Here's a nice discussion of people's favorite CAAD model. The CAAD8 got some votes.
https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=252494&highlight=favorite+cannondale
I wish Kleins were as easy to find as Cannondales. I only have one, a Chehallis made 1996 Aeolis from the Trek owned era. Very nice TT frame, the only issue is the pressed in BB - though there may be more replacement options these days. I've never had it out to compare it more current pressed in models. Too bad Trek killed the brand, and LeMond along with it.
Well I've got the same potential BB issue with mine. From what I've found the actual bearings are common enough if you need to replace them. Phil Woods also has or had a replacement BB.
My Klein was a recent local find that had been rebuilt but I don't really know to what extent. The good thing about riding so many different bike is that they tend to last a long time with little maintenance since the miles get spread around so much.
My Klein was a recent local find that had been rebuilt but I don't really know to what extent. The good thing about riding so many different bike is that they tend to last a long time with little maintenance since the miles get spread around so much.
I picked up my Klein as a frameset (w BB) at the swap meet in Madison WI 15 or 20 years ago. What you said is pretty much what I had guessed without ever having worked on a pressed in Klein BB. I agree about spreading the mileage. I have bikes that haven't needed much of anything in at least 25 years, one of them a Cannondale M800. I have replaced chain and tires but nothing else and that bike gets a fair amount of use.
Well..... I did it. This one was about an hour away so I went this morning and made a deal with the owner. Seems to be in really good shape, just dirty. His understanding is it was a team bike of some sort. It does have a "R" serial number which makes it a 2006 I guess. It's also got the 55 cm size label on it yet the catalog shows 54 and 56 so I don't know if that means anything. I measured 54.6 CTC top tube but only a 52.1 ctc seat tube? Yet stand over is a tad over 80 cm. It also has the Premium+ fork on it which I didn't see on the CAAD8's in the catalog. I'm about to go over every inch of it now as I wipe it down but I don't see any real marks in the paint and no dings. Mechanically it's all working well and seems to be pretty much tuned in. The one shifter feels a little gummy but normally a flush with WD-40 and relube with Triflow sorts that out. The seller did throw in a really nice set of Dura Ace 10 speed levers because the one on there is a bit sticky. It's running an Ultegra compact crank now with Ultegra RD and 105 FD. I think the calipers are 105 too but I'll check the number as I clean it up. SRAM PG-1070 12-26 cassette with a SRAM chain. Mavik Kyserium SSC SL wheels with Vittoria Open Corsa CX tires in size 700 x 25. Looks like clearance for a bit larger tire in the front if wanted but probably not in the rear. Limited clearance by the brake bridge. FSA seatpost and stem with Ritchey bars and a blue/grey Fizik Arione saddle. As in the picture it's weighing in at 17 lbs 10 ozs on my digital scale. Paid $650 which I am good with.
A quick shot of how I brought it home. Now to start going over it. Did I do OK on this one, my first Cannondale.
A quick shot of how I brought it home. Now to start going over it. Did I do OK on this one, my first Cannondale.
Sounds like you did fine to me. I don't keep up on S10 parts pricing but I'd guess you could get at least $200 for the DA levers. I wouldn't think there's much that you would want to change. Hope you like it but I don't think you have to worry about losing money if you don't. Is that Paramount decal on top of the clear? If not, there's a good chance that it was a team bike. I have two Cannondales painted for the Helen's Cycles team in LA, and one painted for Team Riley. They all have paint that's not shown in the catalogs, but appears to have been done at the Cannondale factory. The "odd" numbered frame sizes were only available as framesets. The fork upgrade is also consistent with it being a team frame.
Here's a R-W-B CAAD5 on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165051702690?hash=item266dd91da2:g:btwAAOSwTzJhMj7V
Here's a R-W-B CAAD5 on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165051702690?hash=item266dd91da2:g:btwAAOSwTzJhMj7V
Man it is nice looking and really seems in great shape. All the decals on it are under clear coat except for that size one. Degreased all the parts, swapped out those heavy pedals for my usual Keo's, cleaned the chain, etc. Cleaned the frame, then I took some Meguiars #7 to the paint followed up with a wax. This bike shines and there really is hardly a mark on it.
Got lucky on the fit too. Once I dialed in the proper saddle height and setback the reach to the bars is pretty much spot on. The one off thing is the handlebar width. I prefer 42cm and then seem to be 44cm.
The tires look great on it but I did notice one cut in the rear. I'll seal that with shoe goo to be safe.
Checked the parts number on the brakes and they seem to actually be Tiagra level brakes that are unmarked. I have Dura Ace groupset setting in a box so this one may see some tasteful upgrades. Cables do look old so it may be treated to new cables and housing soon also. I just want to get some miles on it before I make any decisions. Right now with the pedal swap and that funky bottle caged pulled it's at 17 lbs 4 ozs. Not that it matters but it's just a point of comparison to the other bikes.
I should get it out for a test tomorrow.
Got lucky on the fit too. Once I dialed in the proper saddle height and setback the reach to the bars is pretty much spot on. The one off thing is the handlebar width. I prefer 42cm and then seem to be 44cm.
The tires look great on it but I did notice one cut in the rear. I'll seal that with shoe goo to be safe.
Checked the parts number on the brakes and they seem to actually be Tiagra level brakes that are unmarked. I have Dura Ace groupset setting in a box so this one may see some tasteful upgrades. Cables do look old so it may be treated to new cables and housing soon also. I just want to get some miles on it before I make any decisions. Right now with the pedal swap and that funky bottle caged pulled it's at 17 lbs 4 ozs. Not that it matters but it's just a point of comparison to the other bikes.
I should get it out for a test tomorrow.
Kind of odd to have those calipers on a build that is pretty high end otherwise. They probably work fine though. Glad to hear that you didn't discover any issues during the clean up. That's when I usually start to notice flaws that I didn't see initially.
Just a little update on this one, it's been a bit of an enigma. Looks great, components seem to be in good shape and yet I'm having trouble getting speed out of it. I've got around 25 various old road bikes and as a fun game lately I've been trying to ride all of them over a similar 24-27 mile course at a 19 mph avg or better. This bike just fights me for speed every ride. I finally got it done with a 19.0 avg speed on one ride after failing with several other attempts on it. Yet pretty much all my other bikes have been easy to get done at 19-20 mph averages. The ride I finally did it on with this bike required more perceived effort and a higher avg HR than on any of the other bikes. It just feels like something is sucking up my meager power on this one. The chain rings look good as does the cassette, the chain measures ok, and the BB feels ok. But I just replaced the 6600 series BB with a new R9100 Dura Ace one. I've got a new 10 speed chain coming in and will be mounting on a spare Dura Ace 12-25 cassette. The hubs on the bike feel ok but I did have to service the freehub on the rear as I got the infamous Mavic grinding sound on one ride while coasting. It the drive train parts don't sort things out I'll swap wheels too see if maybe there are issues with the bearings on this Kserium's. While I'm doing all the work I'm going to swap in a carbon bar I have on hand and those Dura Ace STI shifters that came with this. I'll also did into the my parts stash to see if I have some 7800 series Dura Ace brakes I can put on this.
I recall doing similar rides 25+ years ago: My 1987 R600 vs. a 531 Bob Jackson. Try as I might with numerous attempts over the same route I could never go as fast on the Jackson as I could on the Cannondale. Unless you have a cracked tube on your Cannondale I would doubt that the frame is the problem. Can you swap wheels with one of your other test bikes?
Yeah wheels will be next most likely. I keep finding little issues I didn't spot because the bike seemed so clean and well taken care of when I got it. I didn't give it as thorough of a going over as I normally do. There has been side to side play in the crank for at least that final ride. The plastic preload part that threads into the non drive crank arm was the wrong one and too long. It allowed the crank to be set up wrong. And I found a ton of gritty grime on the seals of the original FC-6600 bottom bracket. Inside of the BB shell was spotless though! I degreased the crank completely before reinstalling with the new BB. I swapped in a used but mint looking Dura Ace 12-25 cassette and a new KMC XL chain. While I had the rear wheel and chain off I noticed how nasty the inside of the jockey pulley cage was. The rest of the RD was spotless, including the pulley wheels themselves. So I took apart the jockey cage and the pulleys and found a bit of a mess. Hard sticky gunk was covering the inside of the jockey cage, so bad that the dust cap for one pulley was stuck to it. I degreased all that, took apart the jockey wheels, degreased and cleaned them, lubed it all up, and put it back together. Oh and I also found the replaceable RD hanger very loose. Had not noticed that. I tightened it up but need to do some research to see if those little bolts need loctite or not. Anyway, a lot of little things wrong that most likely are what effected the performance. Hopefully today will be the last day of the much needed rain we've been getting so I can test it tomorrow. Gonna stay with the wheels that came with it right now but if it still feels sluggish I've got some others to swap in. Dropped another 3 ozs off this one. I really want this bike to fly because then I'm going to play around to get it as low into the 16 lb range as I can just for the heck of it. I've got some Look Keo blade pedals on the way as well as some nice Veloflex tires. They should be more plush than the Vittoria's to smooth out the ride a bit on the rough chipseal. Then I still have the bars, Dura Ace 7800 STI shifters, and some Dura Ace 7700 calipers for it. May even splurge for some 7800 brakes. for the heck of it. I'll probably redo the cabling and housing at the same time. Then this winter while all the good bikes are safely stored in the bike cave I want to get my first set of Farsports/BTLOS style carbon wheels. Just need to decide if I want to go tubular or clincher. The right wheels should take almost a pound off and where it'll truly matter.
I wonder if anyone has ever tried to measure how much power it takes to spin gummed up jockey wheels. I've come across some that you could barely turn with your fingers. I don't think I've got any Cannondale down close to 16 lbs. I'm sure my CAAD6 is the lightest, with Campagnolo 10, Hollogram crank, and Neutrons. Will have to weigh it but would be surprised if it's under 19 lbs.
Well.... I did go ahead and order some Dura Ace 7800 brakes for it. Still waiting for them to come in. But today I got in a new saddle that I think looks a little better on it. I also got in the shipment of stuff from Merlins so the bike got new Look Keo Blades today, some supple Veloflex Corsa Race tires and new Vittoria Latex innertubes. I know officially have my first bike ever that weighs under 17 lbs. With the changes today the bike is now at 16 lbs and 15 ozs. Curious to get this back out to see if the recent service makes it feel better on the road.
A shot from today with the new pedals and saddle.
A shot from today with the new pedals and saddle.
Looks great, like all of your bikes. I did weigh my CAAD6. It's a 60 cm, has Record 10, hollowgram crank and Neutrons. It weighed 18.6 with no pedals. Doubt I could find 1.6 lbs. to take out of it.
More changes and another "issue". So new housing and cables as well as new Zipp carbon handlebars and ST-7800 shifters. I had my favorite LBS do this work hoping to have it done by today for a nice weekend ride. Well, they got it done but there's a problem and it's also raining all day again. Turns out the FD is not compatible. It's a really old FD-1050 so I've going to swap in a FD-7800 I have on hand. At least I think I am. It's a braze one so I have to see if I have the right adapter ring to mount it with. Anyway, with the latest work the bike is now even lighter, 16 lbs 10 ozs.
I went with red housing in the back but white up front. I also had inline adjusters put onto the front housings just in case they are ever needed while riding. Stuck with the white bar tape as I need the white on the bike for the look I'm going after.
I also found a great deal (I think) on some new tubular wheels that are only 1190 grams yet have more than enough of a max rider weight for me. Those should put this bike right under 16 lbs which is crazy light in my book. Too bad it'll still be held back by a slow rider, LOL!
Update: Swapped in the Dura Ace FD-7800 and got the front shifting spot on really quick. And dropped more weight from it....16 lbs 8 ozs. Crazy!
I went with red housing in the back but white up front. I also had inline adjusters put onto the front housings just in case they are ever needed while riding. Stuck with the white bar tape as I need the white on the bike for the look I'm going after.
I also found a great deal (I think) on some new tubular wheels that are only 1190 grams yet have more than enough of a max rider weight for me. Those should put this bike right under 16 lbs which is crazy light in my book. Too bad it'll still be held back by a slow rider, LOL!
Update: Swapped in the Dura Ace FD-7800 and got the front shifting spot on really quick. And dropped more weight from it....16 lbs 8 ozs. Crazy!
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