To repaint or not too repaint.

[JohnnyD]

Thought I would ask the forum the question, since I can not make a definitive choice myself.
Should I repaint my M700 or not. If I do, do I color match the orginal Formula Red, or go with the more vibrant Viper Red that Cannondale used a few years later? I just can't decide one way or another.

 

[Trailmix]

For my bikes, I prefer original paint even if it is in bad condition. But this is your bike, what do you like?

 

[doxilia]

What’s the black “rash” on the seat tube and forks? Looks like the paint has bubbled on those areas.

Either way, if you’re going to repaint, worth doing it properly by stripping the frame to the bare aluminum and using a quality etching primer. 2K primer would be even better. Quality primer and clear coat are the keys to a good paint job. And lots of wet sandpaper and elbow grease.

 

[JohnnyD]

What’s the black “rash” on the seat tube and forks? Looks like the paint has bubbled on those areas.

Either way, if you’re going to repaint, worth doing it properly by stripping the frame to the bare aluminum and using a quality etching primer. 2K primer would be even better. Quality primer and clear coat are the keys to a good paint job. And lots of wet sandpaper and elbow grease.

That was the way it was painted in 1992 from the factory. Even the M800's had it. All the 1993's and up I've seen are solid color. It looks like it was some designers idea of what a fade would look like when applied by a sponge.

On the bikes I have painted I used nothing but 2K paints and clear coat. It took a ton of wet sanding work to get it off the frame of my Super V when I went to repaint it. Still have some to go around the swing arm pivot, it's a tough area to do because you can't get a good hand position to really work the sand paper.. Done right 2k is the only way to go for
durability.

 

[doxilia]

I see the finish better now in the CU shot, thanks.

It sounds like you are well adept at painting it yourself so maybe you just need a little push from fellow painters!

If it were me, I’d redo it mainly because I don’t like red bikes. Something that looks more elegant yet sharp. I’d also axe the FD and go with a 1x setup. Maybe try and drop some weight on it in the process.

I made these changes on my wife’s Giant (roughly same vintage) and dropped 3 kg from it by also swapping out the lead 2.5 kg suspension fork for a carbon unit. Went with SRAM GX mechanical and an 11-46 cassette. Plenty of range for anything she might ride. Also converted it to disc brakes but haven’t gone hydro yet. Last thing to do.

Interesting looking brakes. Are those hydraulic?

 

[JohnnyD]

I see the finish better now in the CU shot, thanks.

It sounds like you are well adept at painting it yourself so maybe you just need a little push from fellow painters!

If it were me, I’d redo it mainly because I don’t like red bikes. Something that looks more elegant yet sharp. I’d also axe the FD and go with a 1x setup. Maybe try and drop some weight on it in the process.

I made these changes on my wife’s Giant (roughly same vintage) and dropped 3 kg from it by also swapping out the lead 2.5 kg suspension fork for a carbon unit. Went with SRAM GX mechanical and an 11-46 cassette. Plenty of range for anything she might ride. Also converted it to disc brakes but haven’t gone hydro yet. Last thing to do.

Interesting looking brakes. Are those hydraulic?

Yes, they are Magura HS 33 hydraulic rim brakes. Super overkill on this bike, but I enjoy them. They stopping power is between mech disc and hydraulic disc, with amazing modulation. They can be a bit of a hassle to set up initially, but once you get the alignment right it's great. A simple flip of the quick release lever, move the caliper out of the way and off comes the tire. The reverse is just as easy and it self aligns right back where you have it adjusted. If only cantilever and v-brakes were that simple.

 

[Jon K.]

That was the way it was painted in 1992 from the factory. Even the M800's had it. All the 1993's and up I've seen are solid color. It looks like it was some designers idea of what a fade would look like when applied by a sponge.

Wasn't "spatter fade" a thing with Cannondale for a while? I recall seeing an early frame (I think it was in one of the "Craigslist find" posts I made) that had a Raceberry "fizz fade" to Rocket Silver that looked like carbonated-soda bubbles....

The red is nice - red is fast, remember ;-) but it wouldn't be my first choice, either. Only thing is, as you say, prep work is a pain.

 

[black lightning 1987]

Can you get original decals? If not, I would probably leave it as is.

 

[JohnnyD]

Can you get original decals? If not, I would probably leave it as is.

I've found a seller who makes a very nice set of M1000 decals. He is willing to change the lettering on the model number to make a set. He just need high quality close ups and measurements to do it.

 

[black lightning 1987]

If you're going to repaint, I would go with whatever color you like. I doubt that a non original color would hurt the value very much, and we see colors all the time that don't show in the catalogs.

 

[JohnnyD]

If you're going to repaint, I would go with whatever color you like. I doubt that a non original color would hurt the value very much, and we see colors all the time that don't show in the catalogs.

If I do repaint it, I'd make it simple and just change the Formula Red to the much more vibrant Viper Red.

 

[Nico]

Why repaint it?
The damage doesn’t look too bad.

In the past, I did bike touch-ups when I worked for Cannondale.

If you take your time and work meticulously, you’ll barely notice the paint chips afterward.

Your local car paint shop can mix a matching color sample for you to use on your bike.

1. Clean and degrease the chipped area.
2. Apply a little paint and let it dry until it hardens.
3. Use fine sandpaper to smooth it down, blending slightly into the clear coat.
4. Finish by spraying a light layer of clear coat over the touched-up area.

If you start with a small, less-visible chip, you can practice and “learn” the process before working on a more noticeable spot.