SM600?

Ergo

Member
The frame number is 18031788111, but I can’t figure out what it is.

Looking at the catalogs, the Suntour XCD derailleurs make it look like a 1989 SM 600.

This is the bike my wife rode in college in the early 1990s and I’m fixing it up for my son to take to college.

I’d like to update the derailleurs, since right now I can’t get the the chain to not hit the front derailleur cage in the lowest gear but it then hits the largest sprocket if I move the derailleur further down on the frame tube and there’s no barrel adjuster at the derailleur to make fine adjustments.

The rear derailleur has no B adjustment screw so I can’t get the chain to shift into the lowest gear without the chain rubbing on the upper jockey wheel.

Any suggestions for suitable derailleur upgrades?
Though looks like I’d have to use a derailleur hanger for most rear derailleur upgrades.
 

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letsbike

Well-Known Member
That looks to be a 1988 SM600 that has seen some rough treatment.
 

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Ergo

Member
Agree, that’s the conclusion I’ve reached too. The wheels, derailleurs, brake are all stock, frame is straight and original paint. But I think a lot of it was left at various bike racks and railing in San Luis Obispo. I’m tempted to restore with the original shifters and red cable sheaths but my kid has shown minimal interest in it…just want to write code all day.
There is a broken tooth on the gear set and I might replace that if I find a suitable replacement
image.jpg
 

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black lightning 1987

Moderator
Staff member
The rub on the large cog could be from incorrect chain length. Does it happen with all three chainrings?
My first Cannondale was a 1989 with XCD. I put almost 8000 miles on it with only replacing the chain a couple of times, and one freewheel. I don't recall either of the issues you're having. Could the front problem be incorrect limit screw adjustment? You could add an inline cable adjuster for fine cable tension adjustment. I have a box full of XCD stuff if you think something is simply worn out.
 

Ergo

Member
I thought the same thing and just bought a new chain yesterday. The play on the RDR is fine but I got a couple of replacement jockey wheels out of my local ship’s parts box. We’ll see if that makes a difference. I’m gonna clean them up but don’t want to remove the finish.

I appreciate the offer!
 

Ergo

Member
I thought the same thing and just bought a new chain yesterday. The play on the RDR is fine but I got a couple of replacement jockey wheels out of my local ship’s parts box. We’ll see if that makes a difference. I’m gonna clean them up but don’t want to remove the finish.

I appreciate the offer!
 

Kenright73

Active Member
As previously stated, it's a 1988 SM600. Pictured below is mine, all stock except for tires, grips and Profile Bar Ends. I've only ever seen 2 being offered for sale; 1 became mine and is my daily street bike. So with yours, I guess that means there's 3 out there
 

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Kenright73

Active Member
If youre looking for parts, you should be able to find some 6 speed freewheels/cassettes on eBay. Shifters might be a little harder to find as they are a little unusual, as are the bat wing brake levers. I hate em, but love em. They're staying, even though I'd love to add another cog on the back....

Also, try this link. Top of page should say Vintage Components. Scroll down and click on the part you are looking for, etc. It's a little tedious, but these guys seem to have everything!!!! Best seen on a real screen, trust me on that. LMK how it works out!!

 

Ergo

Member
I found the exact freewheel on eBay, just finished painting and putting decals on. Now replacing wheel bearings.
Mine had a gloss black stem that looks stock, which I kind of like, but may go back to the red seat and stem at some point, but the red stem/seat is less than understated for my taste.
 

Jeff G.

New Member
Early SR900 for sale
serial# on request (no alphas)
All campi save cinelli recurve and suntour derailler (superbe tech)
includes orig toe clips, no straps
all original painted badges intact (nodecals) - paint needed, paint shop did a match which didn't. No way could I have powder coated it w/o losing original badges.
 
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Jeff G.

New Member
ps
bike beaten up by 2 airlines - original paint fairly mauled, repainted with imperfect match.
 
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Ergo

Member
I found the exact freewheel on eBay, just finished painting and putting decals on. Now replacing wheel bearings.
Mine had a gloss black stem that looks stock, which I kind of like, but may go back to the red seat and stem at some point, but the red stem/seat is less than understated for my taste.
Update:
Over the past year, lots of changes, not the least of which was retirement.
After a year of different paint trials, I settled on duplicolor Chevrolet black with gold flakes over the acid etching primer.

I’ve been able to a red stem, original bat wing brake levers and suntour accushift levers.

I’m now at the point of fine tuning the brakes and shifter, so hopefully folks in the group can give some tips on getting the shifting to work properly.

Till then, here’s some pix:
 

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black lightning 1987

Moderator
Staff member
Could you post a close up photo of the paint in sunlight? I have a couple of frames here that I could use to replace the stolen 1989 bike I owned. I was thinking that I would just paint it straight black, but what you found sounds like a good option.
 

Ergo

Member
So many questions…
Bike is finished but it’s like night and day riding this little guy compared to my 29” Habit and Trail SE.

1. The SM600 is like an old man, I have to fish around with the front derailleur to find a place where there’s no rubbing of the cage against the chain, and when I’m in the largest cog on the back, there’s no way to get the front derailleur cage to not rub against the chain when I select the smallest gear on the chain wheel.

2. The brakes! Amazingly grippy and strong! I was expecting these old calipers and rubber shoes to just fade in but it’s just the opposite.

3. It’s such a teeny frame, but I can’t really tell what the frame size should be. Measuring the top tube I get 30 1/2” from front end of the tube to the ground and 27” from back end of the top tube at the seat tube.

4. Paint job: I stripped the frame to bear metal then used duplicolor acid etch olive primer followed by 3 coats of Duplicolor Black Metallic and two coats of Duplicolor 1K clear high gloss finish, sanding between coats with 600- 800- 1000
Paint was the hardest, most frustrating part and I spent a fortune on the damned paint at my car parlera store, but I’m not happy. It’s still dull, easily chipping.
Next time I’ll just save the heartache and take it to an auto body and paint shop so that it can get properly painted and baked.
 

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Kenright73

Active Member
The geometry is differ from the level top tube frames built during this time. I believe the ST and HT angle are slacker by a degree or so.

Oh and BTW, killer job hoss!! As a current owner, I'm loving it that someone else showed love to this frame and build!!
 

Ergo

Member
Thank!
It’s funny, I started with this bike then got distracted with a Trail 6, Trail 4SE and finally a Trail3SE, all of which needed work and/or I couldn’t resist upgrading. To this date I’ve finished four other bikes and now the SM500. I’ve gone down from seeing patients 5 days a week to 1/2 day a week and life is good.

‘Im getting more into riding than wrenching but I’m constantly tempted to do more upgrading of components and making every squeak and click go away :).
 
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