R400

IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
And I don’t have a barrel nut for fine tuning cable tension on the front derailleur cable like I do on the rear cable. As pictured here:
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Not sure what that means going forward. I’m learnin’.
 

black lightning 1987

Moderator
Staff member
And I don’t have a barrel nut for fine tuning cable tension on the front derailleur cable like I do on the rear cable. As pictured here:
View attachment 10764
Not sure what that means going forward. I’m learnin’.
The only CAAD3 frame I have is a first year R4000 and it has down tube shifter bosses, so that's where the cable adjusters are located if you have bar mounted shifters. I couldn't tell from the pictures what your frame has but it may only have cable casing stops. In that case what you want is an inline cable adjuster at least for the front. They are typically installed a couple of inches from the shifter so they can be adjusted on the fly. You could put one in the rear shift cable as well if you wanted to be able to adjust it while riding. I generally don't bother with the rear as it's usually simpler to stop and make the adjustment at the derailleur than to fiddle with the inline adjuster.
 

IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
I’m having difficulty with the new FD. First thing I noticed is the return spring in the new 105 FD is quite a bit stronger than the previous Sora FD. Second is the limit screws seem to me as having very little effect in positioning the cage.

I can get the L limit screw set up nicely for the small chain ring. To get to the center chain ring I think I’m having to adjust cable tension just right. Very sensitive. Once I have the chain rings shifting nicely between the center and small ones I then move onto the big chain ring. That is where I’m struggling. The H limit screw does very little and the only way I’ve been successful is by adjusting cable tension. And when I do the previous set up for the small and center chain ring goes away.

Maybe my initial cable tension is too tight (it is loose for L screw setting) or my cage alignment isn’t spot on.

The rear derailleur works ok. I will need to fine tune it. I don’t know if it is affecting my FD tuning.

I get a fair amount of chain rub while on the small front chain ring and if I’m on any one of the smallest 4 rear cogs.

Taking a break from the old HF stool.

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JohnnyD

Well-Known Member
I just have to say something about this bike. It is very quickly turning from a clean but battered and slightly broken/bent "cheap" bike into one very nice looking ride. Keep up the hard work!
 

IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
Thanks @JohnnyD ! The NOS blemished 105 FD I got from epay cost me half of what I paid for the whole bike.

I dreamt about derailleurs last night.

While my morning coffee was brewing I went out to the “bike shop” and had a look. I must have stared at the FD yesterday for too long. It was not parallel as I looked at it with rested eyes. Even looking at the above posted picture I can see it now. So I adjusted that. A lightbulb went on in my grey matter and I gave the cable more tension at the pinch-bolt. And voila! It works! There is minor chain rub on the cage while on the small chain ring. I’m almost afraid to touch the L limit screw.

Five minute fix after chasing my tail for hours.

I spent too much time yesterday trying to achieve proper cable tension using the “barrel” by the shift lever. It works for that…to a point. Maybe it worked fine when new or it is just a not so good way of getting the job done to begin with. The latter in my opinion.
 
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IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
Funny. I just noticed my chewed up spoke nipple in the 2nd to last pic. The one I rounded off and had to finish tensioning with small channel lock pliers. Yes. I’m a hack. I didn’t want to start over.

Probably premature, but I’m thinking of my next thing to do to my rehab project; bar tape. Black with yellow speckles if there is such a thing. I don’t know anything about bar tape. Other than the one video I watched on how to replace bar tape. I’m no good at artsy stuff or stuff that isn’t a precision fit. I better buy twice of what I need…
 
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black lightning 1987

Moderator
Staff member
I like to set FD limit screws with the FD cable disconnected I shift between rings with my left hand while turning the crank with my right. Set the inner limit so that it won't shift to the small cog, then back it out just until it shifts. Then check to see if the chain rubs in the small ring/large cog combination. If it rubs back the screw out until it no longer rubs. On the large ring, turn the limit screw in until the chain rubs while in the large ring/small cog combination, then back it out until rubbing stops. Next check to be sure it will shift from middle to large ring. If not, back the limit screw out until it will shift. Once limit screws are right you can connect the cable. You will want the cable to be pretty tight initially, but not so tight that it moves off the limit screw. I set the cable adjuster fairly short initially but still leaving a turn or two to decrease tension, in case I pulled the cable too tight to start.
 

black lightning 1987

Moderator
Staff member
This is the closest I see to what you are describing for tape:


This is Cinelli style, which was what most folks ran in the 1990s:


The Deda black and yellow tape is interesting but expensive.
 

IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
Thanks @black lightning 1987 ! For doing the leg work for me. I’m going to try the first one..


I like your idea for FD adjustment. Eliminate cable tension for the initial set up, makes quite a bit of sense actually.
 
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IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
Brand new old pedals arrived in the mailbox today. Swapped out the clipless. Took the R400 for a quick 2 mile ”sprint”. Rear derailleur needs some adjustment. Running the pedals backward, the top jockey wheel is contacting cogs.

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black lightning 1987

Moderator
Staff member
Brand new old pedals arrived in the mailbox today. Swapped out the clipless. Took the R400 for a quick 2 mile ”sprint”. Rear derailleur needs some adjustment. Running the pedals backward, the top jockey wheel is contacting cogs.

View attachment 10812View attachment 10813
As far as the RD, chain length issue or B screw adjustment could fix the contact between the jockey wheel and the cassette cogs.
 

IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
I haven’t yet gotten the bike back on the repair stand. But what little I‘ve read it is likely what you said @black lightning 1987 . The B screw.

It may be moot point though…I..ahh…had a very good condition 105 RD show up in the mailbox the other day. I had a goofy thought about making components match while browsing ebay. It’ll go well with the brifters that just came in the mailbox. Probably a strange thing to do. Change out working components with other parts. Just to make them the same iteration of Shimano. I should stay off ebay. Or not. I’m having fun tinkering.
 

black lightning 1987

Moderator
Staff member
I generally like things to be matchy as well. But Cannondale did often spec a one level higher rear derailleur. You have to go way back to see many complete component groups specified on a Cannondale.
 

IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
I picked up a set of calipers too. I think I’ll leave the crank alone though. I read the chart on Sheldon Brown’s site. Determining what is compatible is beyond my knowledge level. I only came up with one.
 

IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
The only 105 crank that matches the same dimensions as the Sora that's installed is the 1057. That was my interpretation of the Shimano chart I found on Sheldon Brown's site.

I found one on the bay, but it is part of a bigger set. And a bit more than I want to spend.
 
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