Parts Bike/R600 Upgrade?

[Jon K.]

I know I should *never* look at bike stuff on Craigslist, but here we are....

Saw a post on Craigslist here in Tulsa that I kept an eye on for a while, then when the price dropped I decided to go for it.

People had a 52cm Cervelo P2K aluminum time trial/triathlon bike that they were selling. The ad said the seat post is stuck in the frame, so they were trying to get rid of it figuring someone would part it out. The price started out at $200, then dropped to $100 a few days ago, and I couldn't resist that.

Particularly since the drivetrain is 10-speed Dura-Ace 7800, 2004 vintage. The first with Hollowtech II cranks, so the drive side spider has that smooth bulge in the middle. No bolt to hold it to the bottom bracket axle. 53/39 chainrings, 172.5 crankarms, just the same as the Ultegra crank on the 'dale at present.

Dura-Ace front and rear derailleurs, though the front is a braze-on. I'll need to figure out if it will work with the clamp that is on the 'dale. 12-25 cassette. 700c Ritchey deep section alloy wheels, Ritchey Zero hubs 16 spoke front and 20 rear, Vittoria Rubinho Pro 25mm tires.

Since it's a tri bike, it has bullhorn bars and Profile Carbon Stryke aerobars. Indexed thumb shifters on the aerobars and "skeleton" brake levers on the bullhorns. I'll have to source a set of 7800 STI levers, which won't be inexpensive. I saw a set on eBay with the FlightDeck for $200 used.

Also has black Cervelo dual-pivot rim brakes, not the Dura-Ace. I have 105 brakes on the 'dale now, so they're okay for the moment. Dura-Ace calipers would be another $100 used.

 

[black lightning 1987]

Sounds like a great buy. I would try to save the frame. First would get some good penetrating oil in the seat tube, then clamp the post in a vise and try twisting the frame. On frames where that wouldn't loosen the post I have cut the post off, leaving enough to get hold of. Then cut a slot in the post along its length using a hacksaw blade.

Let me know if you want to sell the bar end shifters.

 

[Jon K.]

Sounds like a great buy. I would try to save the frame. First would get some good penetrating oil in the seat tube, then clamp the post in a vise and try twisting the frame. On frames where that wouldn't loosen the post I have cut the post off, leaving enough to get hold of. Then cut a slot in the post along its length using a hacksaw blade.

Let me know if you want to sell the bar end shifters.

It looks like someone cut off the top of the post already (no seat rail clamping mechanism), and it's a pseudo-aero seatpost - round tube with a sheet-metal "fairing" to fit the aero seat tube. I may be able to remove the sheet metal and free it up, but I'll wait 'til I get the parts off it.

I will see if I can separate the bar-ends from the aero bars. The ends of the aero bars aren't circular where the bar-ends fit, they're sort of egg-shaped. I'm not sure what that means. I haven't really tried to separate the shifters from the bars yet.

 

[Jon K.]

I will see if I can separate the bar-ends from the aero bars. The ends of the aero bars aren't circular where the bar-ends fit, they're sort of egg-shaped. I'm not sure what that means. I haven't really tried to separate the shifters from the bars yet.

I finally figured out that an Allen bolt holds the bar-ends to the aerobars. I took the levers off, loosened the bolts and they came off easily. Of course, the front is a standard Light Action shifter, the rear has the loop-switch to change from SIS to friction, common to the time. Here's a small picture (sorry it's kind of out of focus):

I didn't try them before I took them off (sorry about that), so I only assume they work.

 

[black lightning 1987]

Thanks. I didn't know aero bars existed that weren't round but assumed that they were round enough to take conventional bar end shifters. I've long given up on time trials but they are nice on a gravel/cx/touring bike. Let me know if you come up with pricing.

 

[Jon K.]

Thanks. I didn't know aero bars existed that weren't round but assumed that they were round enough to take conventional bar end shifters. I've long given up on time trials but they are nice on a gravel/cx/touring bike. Let me know if you come up with pricing.

They're not round at the end because they have internal cable routing, and the shape of the end of the aerobar allows the cable to pass through. I should have taken a picture before I took them all apart.

Here's a link to a picture where you can soort of see the bulge in the carbon tube.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/pX4AAOSwOCFkflAv/s-l1600.webp