Hello from Birmingham, AL

[RetroBikeResto]

Hi all,
I'm an amateur bike tinkerer and recently got my hands on a 1989 Cannondale Road frame. Excited to a part of the community.

It appears to have a collection of added components but I wonder if anyone can help guide me on how best to restore it.

It has a Shimano 105 Headset and FD, Suntour Shifters and RD and DiaCompe brakes. Some nitwit actually cut the brake lever clamps to get them off and some of the decals on the components are sanded off. As I understand it, these frames are mostly the same and the components are what seperates them. I'd like the components to match if I can. Does anyone have advice on what direction to go with this?

 

[black lightning 1987]

I think that's a 1989 SR400, which came with mostly Shimano 105 (model 1050) 6 speed components. There were 3 different forks that year. The higher end frames got the AL fork (likely SR made), and there were two different Tange steel forks. AL forks have less fatigue life and have generally gone out of fashion, so it could be considered an advantage to have either of the Tanges these days. It doesn't look like there are many original parts on the frame beyond the headset, seatpost, and stem. I can't tell about the wheels, crankset and handlebar.

 

[black lightning 1987]

Lots of ways to go about rebuilding it. You could fairly easily find the 105 parts and put it back original, use something period correct but higher end, or go with something slightly more modern. Start with the wheels and see if they are something you want to stick with, and decide how much you want to spend on the project.

 

[RetroBikeResto]

Lots of ways to go about rebuilding it. You could fairly easily find the 105 parts and put it back original, use something period correct but higher end, or go with something slightly more modern. Start with the wheels and see if they are something you want to stick with, and decide how much you want to spend on the project.

Thanks for the info! This bike has the AL fork. My original thought was to find the Shimano 105 parts and go back to original. The wheels have been replaced with nashbar rims and they seem ok. I'll start by getting the Shimano parts to match the headset and FD and get it rolling. Then make some decisions from there. Will definitely post pictures as I go.

 

[black lightning 1987]

I think that's a steel Tange fork in the picture. Check it with a magnet.
Since the wheels have been replaced, you should check the rear dropout spacing and the hub width. This was a transitional period with Cannondale using 6,7, and 8 speed rear hubs in 1989. I haven't owned one, so don't know whether they were spaced 128 mm to work with either 126 or 130 mm hubs, or whether both spacings were used. Some folks will strongly advise that you not jam a 130 hub into a 126 spaced frame, and especially not an AL one.

 

[RetroBikeResto]

I think that's a steel Tange fork in the picture. Check it with a magnet.
Since the wheels have been replaced, you should check the rear dropout spacing and the hub width. This was a transitional period with Cannondale using 6,7, and 8 speed rear hubs in 1989. I haven't owned one, so don't know whether they were spaced 128 mm to work with either 126 or 130 mm hubs, or whether both spacings were used. Some folks will strongly advise that you not jam a 130 hub into a 126 spaced frame, and especially not an AL one.

You're right, it's a steel fork. Not sure what magnet I used before, but I just did it again and can confirm it's steel. I'll definitely measure the the hub spacing, if the previous owner did jam a 130 hub into a 126 frame that could mean some structural damage correct? Sounds like a good thing to check before I start buying 105 parts on ebay

 

[RetroBikeResto]

Measured with a tape measure and the rear spacing appears to be 126mm.

also just noticed some weird hardware in the rear triangle, can you confirm that's not sketch central?

 

[black lightning 1987]

I doubt that it would be damaged in the short term. Spreading them just adds more stress and contributes to long term metal fatigue. Just have a good look for cracks in dropouts and stays - something that should be done regularly anyway. My dealer in this era told me that these frames are most likely to crack in the front derailleur mount area of the seat tube.

 

[RetroBikeResto]

I doubt that it would be damaged in the short term. Spreading them just adds more stress and contributes to long term metal fatigue. Just have a good look for cracks in dropouts and stays - something that should be done regularly anyway. My dealer in this era told me that these frames are most likely to crack in the front derailleur mount area of the seat tube.

Did you get a look at that screw sticking out of the frame in my last reply? Is that factory spec, or am I looking at a sketchy repair?

 

[black lightning 1987]

The original chain hanger was a plastic piece that was pressed into the two holes. Someone probably broke the plastic one and inserted a screw to replace it. I doubt that it will be a problem unless they greatly enlarged the hole.

 

[RetroBikeResto]

The original chain hanger was a plastic piece that was pressed into the two holes. Someone probably broke the plastic one and inserted a screw to replace it. I doubt that it will be a problem unless they greatly enlarged the hole.

You've been a huge help this afternoon, thanks!

 

[black lightning 1987]

No problem. Check back in once you decide what you are going to do. There's lots of 1050 stuff on eBay and I probably have some on the shelves here. If you have a local bike co-op, that would be a great place to start looking for parts.

 

[RetroBikeResto]

Picked up some 1050 levers and brakes, but the front brake is for a recessed bolt mount? Any tips on how to find the front brake style that WILL fit in this fork or is there a way to drill the fork out to accept this style bolt?

 

[black lightning 1987]

Sheldon Brown discusses that issue here:

https://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html