Headshock Super Fatty - first attempt on service

Victor, If you decide to service the bearings, I strongly recommend you buy the HD137 race retainer tool. Using the inner tube method in the manual you referenced will be a frustrating nightmare. Also, there is no need to replace the bearings or races unless they are damaged or rusted, so don't buy anything until it's disassembled. Normal maintenance is disassembly, cleaning, greasing and resetting the bearings.

The races come in different thicknesses because that's how the bearings were shimmed to specification at the factory. The outer races are usually all the same thickness, but the inner races varied, and must go back in their original position. The only way to know which are in your particular fork is to measure all of them as you remove them.

Ah okay, I didn't know about that tool. Thank you for the advice and for the information, I will buy it promptly!

Best regards
Victor
 

Barney427

Member
Hi Mike,

Thank you so much for telling me that.
Oh! 5 years isn' bad? First time I bought it 2005,It kept oil 10 years...just lucky.
anyway,I have to be able to repair by my self like Viktor.
I will get both Seal kit, and HDTL146,HDTL187(you told me) right?

Hi Viktor,
Yes! You are right.It has mount of Diskbrake. So possible to fit it:)
It was sold with V brake and Blocktire.(I changed it to 700C as I usually use it in City.)
I think F400 was the low-grade,Other Higher model had Diskbrake.

Most of Japanese who has Cannondale with Headshock gave up to repair during this 5 years.
So they modified it to Normal double fork suspension or They sold it away very very cheap...Oh no,,, If I met Viktor Mike before 5 years... I could tell them.

This is my girlfriend's bike,Comfort 400. It has originally double fork.

Bestregards
IMG_1209.JPG
 
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MikeA

Well-Known Member
Hi Mike,

Thank you so much for telling me that.
Oh! 5 years isn' bad? First time I bought it 2005,It kept oil 10 years...just lucky.
anyway,I have to be able to repair by my self like Viktor.
I will get both Seal kit, and HDTL146,HDTL187(you told me) right?

Yes, and don't forget the HDTL168 bullet tool to install the lower cap.
 
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MikeA

Well-Known Member
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That tool is designed for Leftys. While it can be used to remove your fork from the frame, it is not necessary and probably not worth buying.

Ah okay I see. I saw this tool in this video on youtube:

But I think you are right, it's better to use something else and then save the money.

Thanks again.
 
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MikeA

Well-Known Member
Ah okay I see. I saw this tool in this video on youtube:

But I think you are right, it's better to use something else and then save the money.

Thanks again.

The long length of the tool makes it look awkward to use in that video. The most common recommended method is to use a deadblow hammer on a socket that fits around the hex. In some literature they have recommended setting the HD136 top cap tool in place and hammering on that.
 

Barney427

Member
Hello Mike,and Viktor.

Are you in this site? I hope you guys doing well and enjoy riding.

I have bought Oil seals and Tools , now waiting for them.
I found the man manufacturing Special Tools! Here is website.
I think It works for someone want to repair HeadShock and Lefty. https://improvepart.com/5/
 

MikeA

Well-Known Member
I'm glad to see there are others who love these old forks enough to make and sell special tools! I also saw their stuff listed on Ebay here in the US.
 
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Hello Mike,and Viktor.

Are you in this site? I hope you guys doing well and enjoy riding.

I have bought Oil seals and Tools , now waiting for them.
I found the man manufacturing Special Tools! Here is website.
I think It works for someone want to repair HeadShock and Lefty. https://improvepart.com/5/

Hi
I still drop by here now and then.
My fork is still performing well after the service that I did and I enjoy riding my vintage Cannondale :)

Good to hear that you have got the tools and parts for your headshock fork!
Best of luck with the repair/service, hope all goes well as some of it can be a bit tricky...

Victor
 

jakub_a

Member
Hi,

Great writeup! I'm servicing my own Super Fatty DL but I cannot remove the air cylinder. The damper slides out OK. Then I pump the shock to remove the air piston that remains there. How do I remove the air cylinder along with the valve ??
 
Hi,

Great writeup! I'm servicing my own Super Fatty DL but I cannot remove the air cylinder. The damper slides out OK. Then I pump the shock to remove the air piston that remains there. How do I remove the air cylinder along with the valve ??

Hi, without knowing the exact type of fork and model year, as far as I know there should be nothing that prevents the air cylinder from coming out just as the damper did. I would recommend trying to push it gently out from below, or maybe someone else has a better suggestion ?

Victor
 

jakub_a

Member
Thanks for writing back. Its a 2002 Super Fatty D, with an identical cartridge to yours. Is there some sort of a retaining clip holding the air cylinder and the valve? I tried hammering it out today from the bottom but it won’t move.
 

MikeA

Well-Known Member
Hi,

Great writeup! I'm servicing my own Super Fatty DL but I cannot remove the air cylinder. The damper slides out OK. Then I pump the shock to remove the air piston that remains there. How do I remove the air cylinder along with the valve ??

I drive it out with a wood 7/8" dowel rod. I have a hole drilled in the end large enough for the schrader valve to fit inside so i'm driving directly against the cylinder and not the valve.

First though, if you have a DL80 , the piston should have come out with the damper, not left in the air cylinder since it is threaded on. Second, if you have a DL80 with a silver schrader valve cap, there is no removable air cylinder, however you can remove the cap. Can you upload some pictures of the fork and damper for identification?
 
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MikeA

Well-Known Member
I see you just replied you have the same Super Fatty as Victor. You should be able to drive that out from the bottom, there's probably rust and corrosion holding you up.
 

jakub_a

Member
Here are pictures of the valve cap and the damper:


As you can see it's quite beaten up - doesn't hold air, the valve cap needs replacement (valve core is OK), and leaks oil significantly through bottom seals. I am hoping I can rebuild it.
 
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MikeA

Well-Known Member
I would just leave it in place to avoid damaging it. The end cap is not replaceable anyway, it is manufactured as part of the air cylinder. There are no other seals to replace if you remove the cylinder. An air leak will be repaired with piston o-rings if the inside of the cylinder is not damaged. If necessary, the valve core can be replaced from the outside.
 

jakub_a

Member
Thank you. If I got the cylinder out I would at least attempt to restore the valve outer thread.
I’m wondering if it’s heavy corrosion (I used this bike to commute all year long for 15 years straight) that is holding it in place or is there some sort of a circlip that wont Let go. I can see a small 3mm gap there.

speaking of seals. The HD166 set is impossible to get but the seals must be standard - Is there any info whether they are metric or not and their dimensions?
 

MikeA

Well-Known Member
The retaining ring at the bottom is what the air cylinder bottoms out against when it is slid in from the top. It does not need to be removed and would do you no good even if you got it out. With the damper out, the air cylinder slides right out the top, there is nothing more for you to remove to get it out. Yours is just stuck.

Yes the seals are standard off the shelf parts. Cannondale has used a mix of SAE and metric, but I think everything in the HD166 kit is SAE. I have the numbers in my notes somewhere, I can look for them later for you.
 

jakub_a

Member
Thank you. I appreciate it:)

Just like Victor said, the DD70 service manual states the lip on both seals should be pointing down in the top cap
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and pointing up in the bottom cap
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[∪| |∪]

It must be the case for the DD80 as well.
 
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