Cannondale T2000 V-Brakes Noodle Query

cubalz

cubalz

Well-Known Member
Ok I am installing a front pannier rack on it and the v-brakes have, instead of a standard noodle, some sort of roller thing. It is in the way of the rack due to its' thickness. Can this be replaced with a standard noodle or is this the preferred noodle for heavy touring?
 
cubalz

cubalz

Well-Known Member
Here is a picture of what I am asking about.
 

Attachments

  • Roller Noodle.png
    Roller Noodle.png
    80 KB · Views: 26
letsbike

letsbike

Well-Known Member
No, don't change that part. That is a cam that increases the braking force applied by your brake levers by increasing the travel of the cable. If you get rid of it you won't be able to stop the bike. Mountain bike levers are different and don't require this cam, hence the noodle you elude to.

I would suggest putting a front low rider rack on the bike. They don't go anywhere near the brake area, and your load's center of gravity will be lower than on a rack that sits over a wheel thus increasing your bikes stability.

An alternative is to replace the V-brakes with cantilever brakes, or replace the drop bars with a mountain bike lever accommodating bar such as a trekking handlebar.

If you removed that cam from your bicycle be sure to learn how to reattach it correctly. It isn't round and needs to be installed in a certain way to work.
 
Last edited:
W

willmill

New Member
Out of curiosity, which rack interferes? I agree with letsbike. Starting with the 1999 T1000, C’dale spec’ed the top-end touring bike with (short-pull) STI road brake levers and (long-pull) linear-pull brakes, made compatible with the Travel Agent brake noodle. Traditional low-rider pannier racks don’t interfere. Another option that may or may not be desirable: when the STI levers fail, replace the Travel Agents with traditional brake noodles, and go with Dia-Compe 287V long-pull road brake levers for V brakes and bar-end shifters. I did. The brake power and modulation is exceptional — I like the feel better than disc brakes and better than cantilever brakes. Here is an image of what that looks like on my 1999 T1000 with a Nitto M12 rack with the fork crown bolt skirting just below the noodle and cable.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5639.jpeg
    IMG_5639.jpeg
    980.2 KB · Views: 24
letsbike

letsbike

Well-Known Member
That's a great looking set up. I hope to see your bike in the gallery soon. That's a vintage that is in short supply on our site.
We have no 1999 or 2000 model touring bikes in the Gallery. :confused:
 
Last edited:
cubalz

cubalz

Well-Known Member
letsbike: I am planning on replacing all cables on the bike this weekend. I saw that you commented that the cam needs to be installed correctly. Would you explain the correct way to remove and install a new cable on one of those cams please?

Thanks!
John
 
rickpaulos

rickpaulos

Well-Known Member
FYI, Tektro makes a dropped bar brake lever that is v-brake compatible. I have a pair on my touring bike. I have bar-end shifters to go with it. I change the brakes from canti to v-brakes on my bikes. IMO vbrakes are easier to adjust and work very well. they also don't stick out as much and get in the way of panniers.

In general V-Brakes need levers with more cable pull (less leverage).

I you look at mtb levers: canti-brake levers measure about 1 inch from the pivot point to the barrel cable end anchor point. V-brake levers measure about 1.25 inches. These are approximate due to each manufacturer choose their own distances.

Avid make some pretty cool mtb brake levers that are user adjustable. You can fine tune the leverage while you are riding. "Avid Speed Dial"
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top