IdahoBrett
Well-Known Member
If only the tooling could be had for around $150. I’d buy one.
Beast of the East- Orange Splatter edition
- Thread starter IdahoBrett
- Start date
JohnnyD
Well-Known Member
They were very good quality ones from Germany up until our elected leader decided to tax consumers, umm apply tariffs too , items shipped from Europe that cost less than $800.00.
Bottom bracket tool. I messed up and didn't buy one years ago but it's been in my favorites list for 3 years on that website. They were my go to website for Magura brakes as the prices were super affordable even with the 40.00 dollars in shipping, but now they no longer ship to the US. So I am stuck paying the overpriced US retailer pricing.
Magura MT7 Pro HC are 226.99€ = $267.46
Here they cost $349.00 on sale for 41% off ($592.00)
gotta love knowing you are getting bent over
Bottom bracket tool. I messed up and didn't buy one years ago but it's been in my favorites list for 3 years on that website. They were my go to website for Magura brakes as the prices were super affordable even with the 40.00 dollars in shipping, but now they no longer ship to the US. So I am stuck paying the overpriced US retailer pricing.
Magura MT7 Pro HC are 226.99€ = $267.46
Here they cost $349.00 on sale for 41% off ($592.00)
gotta love knowing you are getting bent over
IdahoBrett
Well-Known Member
LBS did me right. I dropped off the frame with the new BB-UN300 in case he wanted to check the thread cleanup. He went ahead and installed it and re-faced the frame while he was there. For only $20.
JohnnyD
Well-Known Member
Now that is
That's good news indeed!
IdahoBrett
Well-Known Member
Shifter cables and chain installed. Derailleur tuning is next…
Flat tyre bikes
Well-Known Member
Well worth the 20. Looks great. I've messed up some pretty nice bike components by being impatient and attempting force rather than taking to shop for proper repair.
JohnnyD
Well-Known Member
You are not alone, pretty sure it was my rushing that caused the damage to my BB on my M700 that I mentioned before. I am still puzzled by the idea of Shimano using plastic on the non-drive side cup on some of their cartridge BB's . I think it was me stuggling with and rushing to get the non drive side cup that caused the tool to slip and damage the threads.
What's even more crazy is I see "bike mechanics" on YouTube use an air or electric impact wrench to get them out.. They are just one tool slip from a very big disaster IMHO.
IdahoBrett
Well-Known Member
I’m glad I left it to a pro at the LBS. The ”cheapest” tool was too expensive. My decades of rushing projects that resulted in mistakes is finally causing me stop and pause. At least this time….
A stomach bug bit me earlier this week so bike work stopped. I’m a little hesitant on finishing the shifter cable adjustments. If I do put canti’s on the bike the shape of the brake levers might be different than the ones I currently have, which means repositioning and changing the cable tensions. I dislike doing things again in general.
A stomach bug bit me earlier this week so bike work stopped. I’m a little hesitant on finishing the shifter cable adjustments. If I do put canti’s on the bike the shape of the brake levers might be different than the ones I currently have, which means repositioning and changing the cable tensions. I dislike doing things again in general.
IdahoBrett
Well-Known Member
I got bored this morning so I made the BOTE rideable with parts I have on hand. It shifts and stops and rolls just fine. For now.
IdahoBrett
Well-Known Member
I’m no expert on setting up v brakes but they seem easier to set up than cantilever style. It is possible that I didn’t set up the rear correctly.
But setting them up for the rear tells me this frame wasn’t designed for them. The rear top tube cable guide isn’t positioned in a way that allows for the “noodle” to be at its proper angle.
I tried different combinations of cable housing routing and length. This is the length that seemed to work the best. The pads end up close to the rim. Further out and the noodle angle gets weird almost to where it is close to disengaging the disconnect. The brakes work, just not the same as the front. I still plan on running canti’s eventually.
But setting them up for the rear tells me this frame wasn’t designed for them. The rear top tube cable guide isn’t positioned in a way that allows for the “noodle” to be at its proper angle.
I tried different combinations of cable housing routing and length. This is the length that seemed to work the best. The pads end up close to the rim. Further out and the noodle angle gets weird almost to where it is close to disengaging the disconnect. The brakes work, just not the same as the front. I still plan on running canti’s eventually.
Last edited:
JohnnyD
Well-Known Member
V-brakes are almost a night and day difference in ease of setup for sure. You can find the noodles in different lengths and angles, even flexible ones, that could correct the issue you are having. The one you have installed on the rear looks like one that would typically be found on a front brake, the rear brakes usually have a 90 degree noodle. Although it's kind of pointless to change them if you plan on installing canti-lever brakes eventually.