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They evidently held the swap meet on Saturday, but I didn't consider going due to the Covid situation. Maybe next year.

Hopefully Brian will see this and respond. He's the member here that is most likely to have one.

Looks great. I think I posted a link to your Craigslist ad a couple of weeks ago.

There is a whole range of Slice forks, the early ones were 1" and had threaded steel steer tubes. By 2004 you could get a full carbon Slice SI, but it was 1 1/8" so won't fit the early CAAD frames. I'm not sure if the SI was necessarily higher quality than a Time built fork with a steel steer...

I thought that if you were close enough to pick it up it wouldn't make a lot of sense to ship it to me. I don't need another bike, just trying to preserve the ones I am interested in and can afford. Doubt that you are going to drive 300 miles to Austin, and likely it won't cost a whole lot...

Thanks Mike. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated. I hope that Brian will add those docs to the catalog section.

Sorry. You are a valuable contributor here and now I am feeling bad about landing it. I have a 1993 M800 and thought the M1000 would be a great stable mate. The eBay listing wasn't very good but if it has the original SunTour XC Comp 8 speed group, that's a huge plus. I haven't checked the...

No, just have connections all around from long time participation on various bike forums. Seeking advice is a valid reason for joining any forum. I've joined numerous forums for advice, but it's tough to keep up with all of them on a regular basis. I am not sure of the size of the M1000. I...

Thanks for checking in Mike. Could you give us an idea about what's involved in adjusting pressure?

I would not worry about the dent, other than keeping an eye on the dented area in case cracks develop. I don't think it is very likely that the dent will be problem. More to my point - you may be able to find a frame and fork for sale that won't cost you much more than a fork alone.

Do you mean that you want it to be "softer" in the front? I'm pretty sure your fork has an air spring, perhaps the pressure could be adjusted. Craig will know.

The 135 mm is the width of the rear hub, from the outside of one axle lock nut to the outside of the other. This corresponds to the width of the frame between the rear dropouts. I would think that your hub and frame are 135 mm, but they could be 130. It will be easier to find 135 mm 26"...

Thanks for posting. If you get to IL some time I'll be happy to let you ride it.

Is there something wrong with your original fork? If so, you could check with Craig at Mendon Cyclesmith about rebuilding it. If you are specifically looking to upgrade, a Lefty would be the logical option. Craig would be the guy to talk to about that as well.

Do you want to keep your current rear hub and/or shifters? My guess is that you are going to be limited to a 7 speed cassette if the hub is the original Deore LX.

I think that has been mentioned by others. Are you sure it's at the time when the fork is trying to compress? I seem to recall that the noise typically happens after hitting the bump. There is probably a place to put a shim to eliminate the small amount of play. Let us know what you find out.

You might try sending a PM to MikeA. He has a lot of knowledge about Cannondale forks, but he may be more of a Headshok guy.

No significant clues there as far as I can see. I'd call it a modified 1988 ST1000 if I owned it.

Cannondalespares.com has a couple of Lefty springs on their site, but not that one. You might check with them, perhaps they can source a used one.

You have been shopping already. Have you found everything you need?