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Interesting that you found the CAAD7 to be lacking in bottom bracket stiffness. I have a couple of 7s here but I've never built one up. With the 50 mm diameter of the down tube I would have expected it the be very stiff at the BB. Were you pedaling at a low cadence when you rode the CAAD7?

Interesting. You're limited to CAAD4 and older with a quill stem. I'm with you on the level top tube, though I have a few bikes with sloping. I don't mind threadless stems though. Here's the first new Cannondale I owned, a 1999 R4000 purchased as a frameset and built with Campagnolo Daytona...

Nice bit of history that I had never heard of. I do remember seeing that font on the down tube but didn't recall the King James on the top tube. Here's a link to the paceline thread: https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=27521&highlight=king+james

My feeling with no data to support it is that there is very little performance advantage from a current road frame compared to one from 15-20 years ago. The weight of the frames may be a bit lower now but the difference wouldn't affect the average rider to any degree. Back when I was racing...

I still "need" to find a Saeco bike in my size. 7700 is nice stuff, the only real knock on it is that the finish doesn't hold up very well. I have a 7703 group on a steel Serotta. The 7703 triple crank is really nice and light.

You are taller than I but I rider higher seat height than most folks who are even a couple of inches taller. I'd think you would like a larger frame better and would probably prefer the 63 cm frame.

I think you have it right. It's dirt cheap. The Superbe Tech rear derailleur can bring close to the asking price if it's nice.

Thanks. It's from a 1999 XS800, has lock out and coil spring/elastomer. Seems to me that the earlier catalogs had more information on the dampers - even upgrades.

Did you take any pictures of the cartridge? I have one out of similar vintage bike right now, but it's a 700C bike and only has about 25 mm travel. Basic design might be similar

Onza pedals? I may still have a pair.

I thought it looked like full length housing. I was trying to make sense of the frame build date as well. The only thing I can think of is that there might have been a delay getting the 3 x 9 components. Perhaps the frames did sit around for over a year before being built.

I have wondered about those 3 x 9 hubs. Not sure but I think that was originally a Sachs hub. Probably not worth fixing it - I would just go with a 1 x 9 setup. Is there a cable stop for a front derailleur cable? How much do you want for it as is?

Interesting that neither bike has a model number decal. Perhaps an online Euro 2004 catalog exists that would establish the model for certain. I'd guess that it might be slightly lighter than your F700 but I doubt the performance would be much different. A bargain at 200 though.

I'm not sure what the 98 means on the linked bike but it's good to see that the paint was factory original. There should be a single letter on the bar code sticker that will give the year of manufacture. As I recall, it's P for 2004, R for 2005, etc. See the serial number page (click on home...

It's tough to pin down these Euro spec bikes that don't appear in the USA catalogs - other than the Optimo frames were usually on the top two or three F series models in any given year, starting in 2003. The mid and lower models had CAAD5 or CAAD4 frames in 2003 and Furio or Verso frames in...

Glad to hear that you were able to fix it. Hopefully one of our Headshok experts will have an explanation.

They were marketed by Raleigh America starting in 2004 under the name Promax Kollars. I have them for 4 mm and 5 mm casing. On the 5 mm ferrules, the part that holds the casing is 6.02 mm in diameter with the shorter section measuring 5.56 mm.. There is one ebay seller in California that is...

Good call. Cover of Zappa plays Zappa 5 disc set. Better pic of Frank than the parts I was attempting to photograph.

I would probably epoxy some inserts into the original stops. They would likely need to be made on a lathe but would be easy to make. They would just be a cylinder of the same diameter as the drilled out guides with a hole for the cable to pass through. A version could be made that wouldn't...

I guess that I'm not very sensitive to fore/aft saddle position. My first quality road bike was a 1987 SR600 but have owned dozens from other brands since. I don't often ride the 80s frames these days but really never noticed the saddle being more forward on them.