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Friend in North Carolina had one he was selling earlier this summer. Believe it was a 56 cm 1990 model. May be gone now. What size do you need? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Cannondale-Black-Lightning-Frameset-55cm-Frame-Fork-Alloy/324277572474?hash=item4b8073137a:g:rEQAAOSwXjFfSuJT...

Yes, but I don't know the answer. I tend to think of classic hardtails, such as Ritchey P-20, and the F series Volvo team bikes.

Looking better already.

For me it would depend on how much of the current build would need to be replaced, and the cost of going 1 x 11. I know people like their 11 speed setups, but I doubt that there's enough performance advantage that would justify spending a lot extra to make the change.

I would sooner suspect one of the pivot points rather than the stays, but there could be something loose in the dropout area. I would look for slop at the BB pivot and the dropout area. The design definitely depends on a rigid bond from chain stays to seat stays.

That's a subject that I haven't heard discussed, but will be interested to hear what others have to say about it.

Would like to help but don't have anything to offer at present. Will keep an eye out. Interested to see your wife's bike with the 700C wheels and your comments about it.

I would love to find that bike locally at that price. I would touch up the scratches, put a new chain on it, swap out the bar and stem, and be quite happy with it.

Paint looks like a 2000 R600, but that model had a CAAD3 frame. Perhaps Cannondale upgraded the R600 to CAAD4 after the catalog was printed. CAAD4 is a pretty nice ride.

I'd be surprised if you have any problems in the near future with an H300 that doesn't have many miles on it. Even though it was a lower end bike, the components should be pretty reliable. Make sure that the brakes are properly adjusted: pads contacting the rim on the brake track (not below...

Have you taken the wheel out and measured the droupout spacing?

The cantilever dropouts were introduced on the 3.0 series road frames for the 1989 model year and then the 3.0 MTBs for 1990. They continued to be used on the later 2.8 series frames. Most of the MTB line got more conventional dropouts in 1995, with the exceptions of the Killer V frames and...

The bike in the upper picture may be a 1995 frame. The F600, F700, and F1000 were available with a Delta V frame that year, and that was the first year for the type of dropouts shown in the upper photos. Unfortunately the catalog does not show the dropouts on the Delta V frames.

Too many neighbors definitely makes the bike riding less enjoyable. I can ride 10% grades here and never meet or get passed by a car. Glad to hear that the gear change helped.

Are you wanting lower gears but OK with the current high gear? You could go to a compact, subcompact, or triple crank depending on what your desired range is. I don't know a thing about power meters. I think you would get good info on them by posting on the paceline forum or bikeforums. Be...

I'm a bit confused by the upper pictured bike as well. Decals look to be circa 1993 on both, but only the cantilevered dropouts were shown in the catalogs at the time. If you can get the serial number of the bike in the upper photos, it might shed some light on the issue.

First thing I would do is take the rear wheel out and measure the exact spacing between the dropouts. If it's in the 128-130 mm range, I'd think you would be OK running a 130 spaced wheel. I have spread a 1987 Cannondale road bike (nominally 126 mm I think) and ran a 130 spaced wheel for...

Pretty cool bike. I like the paint on it a lot better than the flower design on my friend's CAAD9 Feminine.

Are you going to clear coat the fork or just polish again when needed?

Glad to hear it's working well.