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I haven't looked for those specifically but you might check at velocals.

I'm guessing 1997 from the color. Tempting as it doesn't seem outrageously priced.

Would that have been the fork for an F3/F4 from 10+ years ago?

Great condition.

30.2 is what you want. Headset cups are designed to be slightly oversize so they don't wear and begin to rattle around. The acceptable range for the inside diameter of the head tube is 30.05 to 30.1 mm.

I wonder if Blueberry didn't become Team Blue about ten years later. Certainly looks close. You might check out the nail polish aisle. This Sally Hansen 505 is close to team blue, but a little bit on the green end of the range.

Bike looks great.

My guess is that to most of the factory employees it was simply a job, and they had no interest in bikes otherwise. I would have thought that there were some that were interested though. I remember a lot of photos in the catalogs of Cannondale employees on their bikes but can't remember any...

Considering the number of bikes that they churned out, the factory must have employed a lot of people. It's a bit surprising that we don't have regular input from a few of them.

I thought she might also gain a bit of toe overlap clearance, which may or may not be an issue currently. 5 mm is not much but might be just enough in certain situations.

For 1994 colors, I really like the Iceland Green of the KV2000.

The 3.0 frame I am stripping could be a bit older. Perhaps Cannondale quit using the zinc primer at some point.

At under 5' I would think the 165 mm crank would be appropriate.

If I was going to repaint with a two color fade, I think I'd stick with the original colors.

Any information is appreciated. I own 6 Headshok bikes but have never needed to do much to them.

I wouldn't mind trying a modern MTB but there's no way that I could justify the cost of one. I'm not much for hauling a bike somewhere in order to ride. There are four state parks within riding distance but only one of them has trails that can't be negotiated on a road bike.

What year is the Super V and do you know how it was originally finished? Worst frames for corrosion in my opinion are any with bare aluminum and clear coat. I had a CAAD9 CX that was showing signs of spider web corrosion all along the clear coated areas while the painted areas looked like new.

Exactly what I would suggest. Was hoping that one of them would chime in but it wouldn't hurt to message them.

Lots of credit to you for doing such a nice job to get back in such nice shape.

I think the bubbling starts with a chip or scratch in most cases. Add salt from sweat and the corrosion gradually works its way under the paint.