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Easiest is probably to measure the wheelbase: centerline of front hub to centerline of rear hub with someone holding front wheel straight ahead. That said, the size may be stamped in the BB shell.

I might be interested. What size is it?

I think that's a 2006 F600. I don't have any experience with frames that new but this headset sounds like it will work for what you want to do. I wouldn't think that the increased stack of headset would hurt the geometry much, though it might slacken the effective head tube angle a bit. Not...

The only explanation I can offer is that the BB shell didn't get faced to the right width during the production process. You haven't provided the year of the bike but I'm guessing that it's 1992-3. Shimano BB-UN70 was the BB that was specified for the XT equipped bikes at the time. The UN70...

Sure that you have a 70 mm shell? I've never seen a Cannondale that had a 70 mm shell. If it is in fact 70 mm and has English threading, have a bike shop face the shell down to 68 mm. You could also run a Phil Wood or similar type bottom bracket. It (like some other brands) has no ledges on...

It's always nice to have everything "right" on a vintage bike. Can be tough to accomplish some times.

Cannondale may have made their own racks. I have some newer racks that are Cannondale branded. The racks you want are fairly distinctive looking. Here's one from a 1988 T1000 that looks the same as 1987 except for the paint...

It's a nice bike. Perhaps you will reconsider the sale.

I think that is a 1994 R900. It was just one place down from top of the line at the time, and gave up very little in actual performance to the R2000. It looks to be mostly original, only the saddle and handlebar are not in line with what the catalog shows. The bike isn't particularly rare but...

Looking good. Nice to see someone finish a project. Mine just return my stares.

Looking good. That was the #16 hanger then? You might check around with Cannondale shops. Bet one of the older ones will have the cantilever studs.

I understand. I'm looking for a 1989 SM800 purely for sentimental reasons.

Sorry to hear about your daughter. I'll keep a lookout on local craigslist for an M400.

Are you exclusively looking for that year and model? The M400 had the 3.8 series frame and a steel fork. The M500 and M900 had the lighter 2.8 series frame and a Pepperoni aluminum fork. The M900 weighed 3.5 pounds less than the M400. The older 3.0 series frames had virtually the same geometry.

I was thinking quill for some reason. Not sure if I have any 1 1/4" threadless stems.

I would guess a 20" would be right. Standover height on a 20" is 31.3" and the effective top tube length is 23.3" center to center, 23.8" actual. You might look around locally for other brands with similar dimensions that you can test ride and get a feel for the sizing. BWorks in STL has...

I haven't found any of the 5/16" threaded ones for sale. I'm wondering if I could run a 5/16" die over the M8 thread and make them work. M8 is only .003" larger in diameter than 5/16" and the thread pitch is pretty close. I will try running a die over an M8 bolt and see how it turns out. If...

I have at least one, an ITM Eclypse. Nice nickel plated tig welded steel stem. Would have to check but pretty sure that I have the road model on my 1999 R4000.

Depends on what made the mark. Soft cloth and some mineral spirits will clean up some marks. I would try some fine polishing compound next.

Did the 1992 replacement fork have a steel steerer? I'd guess they only tried AL steerers on 1 1/4" forks but don't know for sure. The only 1 1/4" bike I have is a 1993 M800 but I've never had the stem out to check the steerer. Guessing that it's steel, hope I can get around to checking it...