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I hope you will be able to use it, but if not, you shouldn't have any trouble finding a buyer for it. Interested to hear what you find when you get DA BB out.

I would say 1996-1998 is the range. If it's a CAAD3, I would say 1996-7. I don't think there were any CAAD3 rigid bikes in 1998.

That's a tough one. I don't know of anything that would dissolve epoxy and anything that would will surely take the paint right off. I suppose you might find a good machine shop that could cut it out with a boring bar on a milling machine. It would be tough to set it up securely and...

Bill, you might want to PM the poster about the fork.

I had a CAAD9 BB30 frame that had a threaded sleeve bonded into it. I assume that was the simplest way to install to install a threaded bottom bracket in the BB30 frames.

I have no idea what the team kept on hand for spare bikes but I'm guessing that they may have had a few that were intended for several different riders. The team leaders probably had spare bikes set up just like their race bikes, but the domestiques may not have had dedicated spares.

I'd love to find that bike in my size at that price. I'd still be considering it up to about 420 Euros.

No rider's name stamp?

I think that's a 1993 M700. Among my favorite Cannondal MTBs: light, simple, mid-level Shimano components that run forever. I'm guessing that your bike has a fork with a 1.25" steerer. I think your best bet given what you have said is to search your parents' place and find the original...

CAAD6 and CAAD5 are the same except that CAAD6 is BB30 and CAAD5 has a threaded BB shell. Interesting that it may have been an actual team frame. I don't know how spares were handled - whether each team member had spares or whether there were spare frames meant to fit more than one rider if...

Have you considered sending the fork to Craig at Mendon Cyclesmith in the USA for service?

Interesting bike. US catalogs show a CAAD5 team replica in 2002, but not in 2001. Yours appears to be a 2001 model.

Welcome, Julian. Keep at the Super V build. You will get there. My guess is that they were either sold new as framesets, or were used to replace frames under warranty. Since the frames were identical under the paint across several models, it would have made sense to leave the model numbers off.

Guessing that crank uses an external cup bottom bracket. In a perfect world, the gap to the chain stays will be equal side to side, but it might take a shim behind the cup on one side to equal it out. Worst case would be that you have to take some off the BB shell on the opposite side to add...

I wasn't thinking about Q factor. Pull one crank arm and reinstall it 180 degrees from where it was, then measure the Q and the gaps to the chain stays. Should give you an idea about how much lower you can go on Q. I'm not sure about finding Q specs for road cranks, other than those printed...

Hard to say for sure about the cause of the skipping issue but in most cases it can be cured by cable tension adjustment, cable replacement, or cassette and chain replacement. None of those will be expensive fixes. If you have a bike co-op close by, they can probably put you on the right track.

I agree. I don't mind using modern parts when they fit with what I'm trying to build. There are usually interesting vintage options as well.

What chain rings are you thinking about using? I've never tried fitting a road double to a 3.0 frame but I'm sure it would be fine as far as chainline goes. Can't say about ring size but I could test fit a double crank to a 3.0 frame if I have one with the rings you are considering using.

I have seen some interesting bars on 26" gravel bikes. I remember seeing a Scott AT-4 Pro on a 60 mile night ride a few years back. The AT-4 featured a full loop design, with a short section that resembled a clip on aero bar at the front. Lots of hand positions on one of those, but surely...

What are you thinking of using for shifters if you switch to a drop bar?