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Pretty sure a standard Shimano or Campagnolo guide would work.

Looks like a Cannondale to me. Post pictures of the bike and as many of the components as possible. I will try to figure out what year and model it is.

The bottom bracket will have the notched lock ring/pin holes in the cup with two flats on the other cup - or it will likely have a replacement bottom bracket with splines on the inside of both cups. Splined cup (sealed bearing) bottom brackets became the standard in the 1990s, and have been...

The paint bubbling and corrosion is usually because sweat collects in places where it can get under the paint (cable guides, water bottle bosses) and the salt goes to work on the aluminum. A good rinse every now and then will help in preventing corrosion. If you have significant bubbling you...

None of my touring bikes are newer than 1990, so have the Tange forks with the cast crown. It's possible that Cannondale sourced the tig welded forks from a supplier that didn't thread them. I would think that with a good light you could see whether the bosses are threaded. If not you could...

Looks like it's set up pretty well for what you want to do and in great condition. Most any brand of rack (Blackburn, etc.) should be adaptable to fit. Pretty sure you have tapped holes at the rear brake cable stop for the upper mount. I have some new Cannondale racks here, might be coming...

Should be threaded. What year touring frame? I can check a couple of mine but thought they were M5 or #10-32. Yes, the cage bosses are essentially Riv-nuts. They are squeezed into the frame and expanded with a tool that looks much like a pop rivet tool. If you can thread the tool in...

Bottom bracket is the term for the crank bearings and spindle assembly. Cannondale pioneered the BB30 standard, Shimano the Octalink, Campagnolo the Utra Torque, others the ISIS. Cannondale used all of these at some point, and other types as well. I might be interested in the Coda crank if...

There may be production records at the factory that would provide more information but we don't have access to them. Scalpel does not show in the catalogs until 2003, so MD may be the size rather than the production date. If later than 2001 production it should have had a bar code sticker, but...

I have the matching handlebar bag but not the panniers.

Your original ones might be in the top tube. Perhaps you can rattle them out or use a vacuum with a clean bag. It's been a long time since I installed one and don't remember the diameter. I would think you could use something like small tacks. Brass would be good. I wonder if toothpicks...

That is what I would do. Those shifters may still be working when we are both pushing up daisies.

They do sometimes fail, leaving you stuck in one gear. With bar-cons you have the friction option if the indexing gets out of whack.

Getting the bar up higher will help with the reach issue. I have lots of vintage bars here but don't know how they compare to what you have without measuring.

My guess is that the RX100 crank came on the bike even though the catalog shows a Coda crank. RX100 was pretty nice stuff, so it's good that they substituted it instead of the Altus or RSX that they were putting on other bikes at the time.

Glad to hear that you picked it up. Is it Galaxy blue? What is the crank?

No problem. Check back in once you decide what you are going to do. There's lots of 1050 stuff on eBay and I probably have some on the shelves here. If you have a local bike co-op, that would be a great place to start looking for parts.

The original chain hanger was a plastic piece that was pressed into the two holes. Someone probably broke the plastic one and inserted a screw to replace it. I doubt that it will be a problem unless they greatly enlarged the hole.

I doubt that it would be damaged in the short term. Spreading them just adds more stress and contributes to long term metal fatigue. Just have a good look for cracks in dropouts and stays - something that should be done regularly anyway. My dealer in this era told me that these frames are...

I think that's a steel Tange fork in the picture. Check it with a magnet. Since the wheels have been replaced, you should check the rear dropout spacing and the hub width. This was a transitional period with Cannondale using 6,7, and 8 speed rear hubs in 1989. I haven't owned one, so don't...