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I thought she might also gain a bit of toe overlap clearance, which may or may not be an issue currently. 5 mm is not much but might be just enough in certain situations.

For 1994 colors, I really like the Iceland Green of the KV2000.

The 3.0 frame I am stripping could be a bit older. Perhaps Cannondale quit using the zinc primer at some point.

At under 5' I would think the 165 mm crank would be appropriate.

If I was going to repaint with a two color fade, I think I'd stick with the original colors.

Any information is appreciated. I own 6 Headshok bikes but have never needed to do much to them.

I wouldn't mind trying a modern MTB but there's no way that I could justify the cost of one. I'm not much for hauling a bike somewhere in order to ride. There are four state parks within riding distance but only one of them has trails that can't be negotiated on a road bike.

What year is the Super V and do you know how it was originally finished? Worst frames for corrosion in my opinion are any with bare aluminum and clear coat. I had a CAAD9 CX that was showing signs of spider web corrosion all along the clear coated areas while the painted areas looked like new.

Exactly what I would suggest. Was hoping that one of them would chime in but it wouldn't hurt to message them.

Lots of credit to you for doing such a nice job to get back in such nice shape.

I think the bubbling starts with a chip or scratch in most cases. Add salt from sweat and the corrosion gradually works its way under the paint.

I posted the question on another forum and the first response I got was that the 12 speed cassette will fit on the 9 speed hub. Don't understand how the cassette could be that narrow when Shimano had to widen their freehub body when they went to 11 speed on the road hubs.

I am still not clear on exactly what you have on the bike now. You said Shimano but Johnny said you have a SRAM front derailleur. Do you have SRAM shifters or Shimano? If you have a SRAM derailleur and a Shimano shifter, that is likely the cause of your front shifting problem. Swap the SRAM...

I would certainly agree - if it was my bike and everything was functional. It wasn't clear what the OP was trying to achieve with the change to 1 x 11/12.

Are Shimano 11 speed MTB freehubs the same spline depth as the 11 speed road hubs? SRAM 11/12 also the same? I built a SRAM 10 road bike about 10 years ago. It's been easy to stay away from their stuff since given the cost.

Metallic can be tricky to spray. Looks like you got a very uniform finish. I just ordered a quart of Hammered Green Rustoleum to refinish several vintage S-K socket set boxes. Thinking that I should send the whole mess to you...

This looks to be an interesting bit of Cannondale history, a frame made for the Motorola team as a demo - a sponsorship deal which ultimately didn't pan out...

The first thing I would do is check your rear hub and see if it's going to be compatible with 11/12. Are you going to want to invest in a new wheel (or pair) in order to make the component swap?

It seems there is no limit to the large cog tooth count these days. What does that cassette weigh? Paint looks great.

Will call you crazy if you paid over $300 for the crankset.