SM800 restoration project

[beast_of_the_east]

Hi all,

I am new to the forum(as I only discovered it while rummaging thru the internet for Cannondale specs/parts) and struck gold here. I learned quite a bit here on this forum and I'd like to share as well.

I'll be(slowly) restoring what I believe to be a '91 SM800 in pretty descent shape and thought I'd share the process and take into consideration any suggestions/corrections.

I got it fairly cheap too as the previous owner did not really have any interest in it. I am impressed with the welds and the paint. Shortly - I am hooked!
I've been riding downhill and later years enduro trails for almost a decade and quit just recently over a(minor but still serious) injury from which I fully recovered. I am far from done riding MTBs, just switching to the less risky stuff. So, this was just for context, I kinda know my way around bikes(did all the mech stuff for myself - from sus service and tuning to wheel building) while at the same time being a noob at restoring vintage models.

A few things seem to be to out of original spec:
- Lefthand DX lever/shifter missing, replaced with newer Shimano parts
- no Pepperoni fork - Rond suspension fork in poor condition instead(I also sourced two spare Rond Hydro stanchions)
- front wheel is not LX - but looks to be a decent wheel, POINT written on the hub
- saddle (which I quite like and will be restoring it as best I can)
- seatpost has no branding and likely not the original - trying to source an original meanwhile
- combo flat-spd shimano pedals

I plan on keeping everything as original spec as possible and source whatever out-of-spec parts I can find. I am in europe so finding vintage Cannondale parts might prove a bit difficult but one can always try.
The frame and paint job seem to be in very decent condition, the drivetrain just broken in and wheels true.

A full hub, bb, to fork(if possible) rebuild, polish, restoration is in plan(and lots of riding afterwards)- all of which progress I will share here.
Any suggestions/input/corrections are more than welcome


some more pics:

 

[letsbike]

That is a very nice frame. I'm looking forward to seeing your future posts on this bike.

 

[letsbike]

Do you have some type of bicycle licensing requirements where you live?

 

[beast_of_the_east]

Do you have some type of bicycle licensing requirements where you live?

I live in the sketchy part of the balkans and unfortunately licensing here is an afterthought in any domain - but the frame was likely brought in from Switzerland as it has half a sticker with a .ch internet page written on it.

 

[letsbike]

Ah... the good ole' Confederation of Helvetia tax.

I'm glad you found this platform. Keep the pictures coming. We'd love to see your part of the world. Check out the "Where did you ride your Cannondale today" thread.

 

[black lightning 1987]

Is that a 20" frame or a 22"? I have the same frame and fork here, 22" frame. If I ever get around to packing it, it's probably headed to Idaho Brett to build up. I think it would look great with a full 1993 Shimano LX build, as everything is black.

 

[beast_of_the_east]

It's a 20" frame from what I measure. Interesting to know that the frame-fork combo is not unique, it might be that the build was offered as such(or perhaps as an upgrade), the catalogue showing only a Pepperoni fork build and all.

I will definitely lean into the LX build and on the chrome/silver detailing and a new chrome cockpit (thinking of a threadless stem adapter and a Ritchey Classic 10D silver handlebar).
It's too hot here at the moment to be doing any work in the shed so I am just contemplating the options.

 

[Trailmix]

It's a 20" frame from what I measure. Interesting to know that the frame-fork combo is not unique, it might be that the build was offered as such(or perhaps as an upgrade), the catalogue showing only a Pepperoni fork build and all.

I will definitely lean into the LX build and on the chrome/silver detailing and a new chrome cockpit (thinking of a threadless stem adapter and a Ritchey Classic 10D silver handlebar).
It's too hot here at the moment to be doing any work in the shed so I am just contemplating the options.

It isn’t unusual to see a 91/92 model without the Pepperoni as this was the time when Cannondale switched to the aluminum steerer that was eventually recalled. In the US, dealers offered a replacement Pepperoni or a Rock Shox Quadra 10. It could be that other countries offered a different fork or it could have been added by the owner independent of the recall.

 

[JohnnyD]

It's a 20" frame from what I measure. Interesting to know that the frame-fork combo is not unique, it might be that the build was offered as such(or perhaps as an upgrade), the catalogue showing only a Pepperoni fork build and all.

I will definitely lean into the LX build and on the chrome/silver detailing and a new chrome cockpit (thinking of a threadless stem adapter and a Ritchey Classic 10D silver handlebar).
It's too hot here at the moment to be doing any work in the shed so I am just contemplating the options.

I agree with the LX build and you can't really go wrong with a nice silver Ritchey handlebar and stem.
I know far to well about the heat becoming a factor with completing work in my shed. Too darn hot to finish the little bit of sanding work left to get my SuperV repainted, or finish installing the GRX parts on my F600.

 

[Trailmix]

It's a 20" frame from what I measure. Interesting to know that the frame-fork combo is not unique, it might be that the build was offered as such(or perhaps as an upgrade), the catalogue showing only a Pepperoni fork build and all.

I will definitely lean into the LX build and on the chrome/silver detailing and a new chrome cockpit (thinking of a threadless stem adapter and a Ritchey Classic 10D silver handlebar).
It's too hot here at the moment to be doing any work in the shed so I am just contemplating the options.

Probably a 22” if you measure a 20” seat tube. Can you post the serial number? I think your bike predates the fork recall window.

 

[beast_of_the_east]

Hmmm I cannot find the serial number(at least on first glance)...
According to https://vintagecannondale.com/info/serial_numbers/ it should be on the non-drive side seatstay/chainstay - but there is nothing there...

Nothing on the driveside stays either...


There's these weird stickers but I cannot really make much of them. Having multiple is just a telling me it's likely some race number sticker or something.

Were the stays serial numbers on stickers perhaps?

 

[beast_of_the_east]

Looking under I noticed the non-drive side of the BB is quite greasy and there is something(that I hope is anti-seize compound) caked around the bb shell that looks off. Looks like someone has done some sloppy work there in recent years. Hope it's not a threading issue...
I will start disassembly soon, hopefully my initial evaluation of this being a garage dwelling bike remains true.

 

[Trailmix]

Try looking on the left seat stay.

 

[beast_of_the_east]

Got to the serial number - it was under the kickstand clamp. It's a '91 frame, size 52

Not sure how this relates to the recall(of which I learned here)...

 

[beast_of_the_east]

Also started to disassemble the Rond Hydro Pro 1 stanchions and got interrupted.
Planning on documenting the rebuild(successful or not) since I could not find any instructions online.

Both spare stanchions are not stuck - which is a good sign. Lots of sloshing sounds on the initial stroke and rebound and immediately followed by some sort of "gunk up" in the insides that halts the motion and locks the telescope for a few seconds. Not the intended damping for sure - likely just gunk and muck and decades worth of neglect/abandonment.

Unscrewing the top nut reveals a valve which I just deflated(my Schrader valve tool did not reach that deep to try and remove the core - not sure if it can be removed). A few drops' worth of thin red oil sprayed out so I am keen on getting a longer core removal tool to see if the core can be removed completely.

Pryed the wiper seal with the help of a plastic ziptie acting as a wedge as to not scratch anything, revealing a retaining ring.

Carefully pryed that one out with a bent screwdriver after multiple attempts.

At this point I think I am supposed to pull the telescope up and it should pull out whatever seals are holding it there now but after some effort(by hand, and I consider myself stronger than average) it seems the seals did not budge but the telescope is higher up.

Next option is some light tappy-tap-taps with a rubber mallet on some kind of a fixture.

TBC!!!

 

[Trailmix]

Got to the serial number - it was under the kickstand clamp. It's a '91 frame, size 52
View attachment 14482

Not sure how this relates to the recall(of which I learned here)...

You are close, the first number indicates the dropout spacing (135mm) then 20” frame size made 07/91 July 1991 then last 4 is the frame number. IIRC the recall dates were August of 1991 through August of 1992.

 

[JohnnyD]

Not sure how this relates to the recall(of which I learned here)...

Quickest way to to check is to put a magnet on the steer tube. If it sticks it's not aluminum and those were to affected ones. Not that it affects the fork you currently have on the bike though.

You are close, the first number indicates the dropout spacing (135mm) then 20” frame size made 07/91 July 1991 then last 4 is the frame number. IIRC the recall dates were August of 1991 through August of 1992.

And your memory served you correctly on the recall dates.

 

[beast_of_the_east]

Disassembled the bike today, everything came off sooo smooth. Someone serviced this bike relatively recently and that someone knew what he/she was doing - there was copper anti-seize on the quill, grease on the square taper, nothing was over torqued. I am counting my blessings here.

I will not be removing the BB as it is smooth and seated properly, there is even some antiseize around the threads so someone thought forwards. I'd like to buy that person a local beer.

The frame is in very good shape, some paint chips here and there and the chainstay getting the worse of it. Very happy with the frame atm. Next will be removing most of the stickers, correcting the paint and polishing. Same for the cranks and whatever else makes sense to touch up/polish.

The paint scheme with the spots really works in my favor on this one as I assume paint touchups will blend in unrecognizable after polishing, even if I am off with the touchup color.

 

[JohnnyD]

Disassembled the bike today, everything came off sooo smooth. Someone serviced this bike relatively recently and that someone knew what he/she was doing - there was copper anti-seize on the quill, grease on the square taper, nothing was over torqued. I am counting my blessings here.

I will not be removing the BB as it is smooth and seated properly, there is even some antiseize around the threads so someone thought forwards. I'd like to buy that person a local beer.

The frame is in very good shape, some paint chips here and there and the chainstay getting the worse of it. Very happy with the frame atm. Next will be removing most of the stickers, correcting the paint and polishing. Same for the cranks and whatever else makes sense to touch up/polish.

The paint scheme with the spots really works in my favor on this one as I assume paint touchups will blend in unrecognizable after polishing, even if I am off with the touchup color.

View attachment 14515View attachment 14516View attachment 14517View attachment 14518View attachment 14519View attachment 14520View attachment 14521View attachment 14522View attachment 14523View attachment 14525

I agree, the person who serviced it last should be rewarded and the paint touchups should be less noticable with that paint job. I wish it were that easy to touch up my M700 paintjob and make it less noticable.

 

[beast_of_the_east]

The frame is now sticker-free and cleaned up(not thoroughly). The "Handmade in USA" decal is a sticker and in pretty bad shape - I will likely have to remove it to polish there.
Up next is a proper clean, paint touch-ups and polishing.