Beast of the East- Orange Splatter edition

IdahoBrett

IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
So it has been a bit since I busted a knuckle on a chain ring. I’ve decided to tackle a 1991 SM800 aka Beast of the East. It was on ebay but the seller was local. I’m not planning on hunting down original parts. That’s expensive. Been there done that.

My goal is to make it my camping bike. Simple (no suspension) and lighter than my other camping bike. I think I’ve got enough spare parts to make it a rider.

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IdahoBrett

IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
The seller was local (20ish miles) and had to be in my area this afternoon. So he dropped it off at my house! He’s a Cannondale fan. Hope he shows up. He is aware of the site.

I’d like to get started on it asap. Not today though. Mrs.Idaho wouldn’t approve…

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IdahoBrett

IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
Headset cleaned and lubed.
I’ve said it before but old bike shop stickers on the frame I find very interesting. Kind of where has the bike been? If a bike could talk…

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JohnnyD

JohnnyD

Well-Known Member
Guess what this thread convinced me to do this up coming week in the mid 70's weather were are going to have.

Time to ride the M700 for a nice long ride! It's been a while since I did a 25 mile ride..
 
JohnnyD

JohnnyD

Well-Known Member
For a 68mm square taper BB? UN300 .. don't know what spindle length you d need. Hollowtech II BB it depends on road or mtb crank
 
IdahoBrett

IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
Got it thanks. The “old” PN was UN55. The spindle length measures 114mm-ish. Or 113mm-ish. Depends on how you hold your eyes. I can’t stand how things outside my career field is so ball park measurement equivalence. I get it. It’s a bicycle. It isn’t flying 6 miles high. The spindle measures closer to 114 than 113. But there are only two choices 113 or 115.

The sacrilegious cannibalization came to a stop. The non drive side cup which is plastic is damaged. The only spare I have is cracked. I guess the engineer thought that a failing plastic cup is better than a cracked frame BB.
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JohnnyD

JohnnyD

Well-Known Member
IdahoBrett said:
Got it thanks. The “old” PN was UN55. The spindle length measures 114mm-ish. Or 113mm-ish. Depends on how you hold your eyes. I can’t stand how things outside my career field is so ball park measurement equivalence. I get it. It’s a bicycle. It isn’t flying 6 miles high. The spindle measures closer to 114 than 113. But there are only two choices 113 or 115.

The sacrilegious cannibalization came to a stop. The non drive side cup which is plastic is damaged. The only spare I have is cracked. I guess the engineer thought that a failing plastic cup is better than a cracked frame BB.
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I know what you meant about ball park measurements causing fits.. Bicycles definitely aren't even remotely like aircraft I've worked on either. My biggest pet peeve is still proper torque on things though. I can't count how many WTF thoughts I've had removing something that should be just barely finger tight and it has 100 ft/lbs of torque on it.. Makes me want to beat the previous person with a really BIG bar of steel across their knuckles.
The BB-UN300 should have a metal drive side cup, at least the ones I've ordered came with them, but Shimano likes to change crap just for the sake of saving a penny or two.
 
IdahoBrett

IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
JohnnyD said:
From a purely cosmetic standpoint I agree, cantilever brakes would look nicer. As for easier to setup and adjust point, V-brakes are much much much more simple.
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I agree much easier to set up. I’ve fixed up close to 10 bikes with saddle cables. They kicked my butt every time in one way or another.

I’m looking forward to finishing this up. The weight savings vs my other summertime camping bike. Moving the BOTE around yesterday was so much easier. Granted it’s missing a few pounds yet. But I’m going to make a prediction that it will be 7-8 pounds lighter than my 88 Rockhopper. Which weighs 35 pounds. I’m not kidding.
 
JohnnyD

JohnnyD

Well-Known Member
IdahoBrett said:
I agree much easier to set up. I’ve fixed up close to 10 bikes with saddle cables. They kicked my butt every time in one way or another.

I’m looking forward to finishing this up. The weight savings vs my other summertime camping bike. Moving the BOTE around yesterday was so much easier. Granted it’s missing a few pounds yet. But I’m going to make a prediction that it will be 7-8 pounds lighter than my 88 Rockhopper. Which weighs 35 pounds. I’m not kidding.
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Holy smokes Batman..35lbs is crazy for that era bike. My 2020 Cannondale Habit is just over 35lbs and it's a 29" wheeled tank. My '92 M700 weighs in at 28 ish so I think you wont have any issues getting an SM800 down to that weight range.
 
IdahoBrett

IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
JohnnyD said:
Holy smokes Batman..35lbs is crazy for that era bike. My 2020 Cannondale Habit is just over 35lbs and it's a 29" wheeled tank. My '92 M700 weighs in at 28 ish so I think you wont have any issues getting an SM800 down to that weight range.
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I never weighed it until yesterday. Trying not to scratch it or our newish truck while lifting it into the bed hasn’t been fun. My wife’s 93 M500 is a feather comparatively.
 
IdahoBrett

IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
The excitement of a new BB arriving yesterday ended with a disappointment this morning. There is something wrong with the threads on the drive side of the frame. Which was not apparent with a visual inspection when I bought the frame.

Hand threading the BB into the frame was met with high resistance after a couple of threads. Close inspection of the threads revealed a slight deformation on the first thread. I cleaned it up with a swiss file and sharp awl. No joy. In my frustration I gave it a partial turn with a BB tool and then removed the BB again.

Nothing stands out other than a slight deformation of the first thread again. With the BB hand tight it’s obvious it isn’t threading into the frame straight. This is a problem I haven’t encountered before. i’m disappointed to put it politely. The non drive side BB cup threads in normally.

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JohnnyD

JohnnyD

Well-Known Member
IdahoBrett said:
The excitement of a new BB arriving yesterday ended with a disappointment this morning. There is something wrong with the threads on the drive side of the frame. Which was not apparent with a visual inspection when I bought the frame.

Hand threading the BB into the frame was met with high resistance after a couple of threads. Close inspection of the threads revealed a slight deformation on the first thread. I cleaned it up with a swiss file and sharp awl. No joy. In my frustration I gave it a partial turn with a BB tool and then removed the BB again.

Nothing stands out other than a slight deformation of the first thread again. With the BB hand tight it’s obvious it isn’t threading into the frame straight. This is a problem I haven’t encountered before. i’m disappointed to put it politely. The non drive side BB cup threads in normally.

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My '92 had a similar issue when I removed the factory original BB in 2020. I had to take it into the LBS and have them chase the threads. I'd buy the tool, but it's not something I can justify (Part tools is 900, Unior's is 400ish) You could chance it with an Amazon special, but I tend to stay VERY far away from tools from there.
 
IdahoBrett

IdahoBrett

Well-Known Member
I called my LBS yesterday. They have the tool and usually charge $25. I’m hoping to bring the frame in today. The weather has been in a cold phase the last two weeks so they might not have a waiting list.
 
JohnnyD

JohnnyD

Well-Known Member
IdahoBrett said:
I called my LBS yesterday. They have the tool and usually charge $25. I’m hoping to bring the frame in today. The weather has been in a cold phase the last two weeks so they might not have a waiting list.
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I wish my local store had charged that little. Cost me $80, three days and a 40 mile round trip.
 
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